Video Series Following the Oak Bark Leather Tanning Process

Over a pretty long period of time, I made a bunch of run-n-gun videos while tanning some leather. At first I was just going to show this experiment of removing sheeps wool by painting the flesh side of the skin with lime paste. Then I figured I’d just shoot easy videos of the whole process with an action cam Well, that took a lot more time than I thought and EIGHTEEN videos later, here is the playlist. The project was oak bark tanning several sheep skins with the hair off and a big chunk of cattle hide.

While there is a lot of “extra” footage in this very pedantic treatment, there is also a benefit to just shooting what I’m doing in real time. This is barktanning as I do it, with all the mistakes, inconveniences and triumphs of shade tree tanning. There are real life lessons here, vs a more idealized instructional approach of discreet steps that may or may not go as planned. If someone wants to learn vegetable tanning with bark and such, this is a very valuable series, even if it takes a while to get through.

The last two videos are Q&A. I gleaned out a bunch of questions from the comments to try to answer. If one person has a question, it is likely that many others have the same question.

Updated Apple Pollination Technique for Breeding

Informed by experience, contemplation and communication with other breeders, my pollination method for breeding apples has changed a lot over 11 years. This blog post will cover what I used to do and what I do now and why. The new method is much easier and more efficient, though it has it’s potential pitfalls.

I’ve been at this project for over a decade, and have now observed enough in the way of results to matter. I feel like I have a much better idea of what I want to pursue in apple breeding, and what crosses are most promising. I also have a lot more genetic material to work with, because the number of apples that I have collected and fruited is much higher than when I started. Maybe most exciting, I’m now using a lot of my own seedling apples as parents. It won’t be too long before some of those fruit and I can enter a third generation of breeding. I spent some time this spring starting to lay out this and other projects under a new webpage, PROJECTS. It goes through the different classes of apples I’m most interested in pursuing and some of the parents I use for each.

When I first started pollinating apple blossoms for breeding, I would delicately pluck the petals from a few unopened clusters, then remove the pollen bearing male parts with tiny scissors before pollinating what was left of the blossom. I could see a lot better back then, but it was still ridiculously finicky and time consuming. I guess I figured bees would not visit blossoms with no petals so I just tagged the branches and left them uncovered.

Early efforts involved delicate emasculation of blossoms. I’m so glad I quit doing that!

Flowers were left just like this, unprotected.

Then I found out that some breeders bag a whole tree or branch and pollinate any flowers that are opened once every day or two. Obviously they were not worried about self pollination. I also knew that apples were generally not self pollinating, so I stopped removing the male parts, which saved a huge amount of time.

Last year, I was pollinating some Cherub blossoms and saw a bee visit the petal-less flowers I had just finished pollinating. I thought maybe it was a fluke. But, then instead of going to another open flower, she went to another petal-less cluster I had just pollinated! Okay, so I started bagging everything. That was easy, because I had bought some organza bags to experiment with for fruit protection. Organza bags are sheer nylon mesh bags commonly used for gifts, wedding favors and stuff like that.

I ordered a bunch of new bag sizes up to 16 x 24 inches and determined to bag all pollinated blossoms henceforth. This year, I went around before trees were really blooming out, and bagged many branch tips and flower clusters before they opened. If a few flowers are already opened, I removed them. With good bagging, I have full control over who applies the pollen, me or the bees. I am also now relieved of the time consuming task of plucking away the flower petals. Once the flowers begin to open, I take off the bag once every couple of days and apply pollen to any open flowers. As the season progresses, it is obvious that some flowers have been open for a while and I stop pollinating those. I am not sure how long the fertile window of apple blossoms are, but some are obviously much fresher than others. I like to pollinate each flower more than once, although twice is probably completely adequate.

The main branches being pollinated on this tree are William’s Pride, Chestnut Crab and Sunrise.

With this method, it is fairly efficient to pollinate a lot of blossoms, but not without potential faults. For one thing, I had to buy a lot of bags. They are not reallly expensive, but eventually it adds up. The bags are fortunately very reusable and reasonably durable. Another issue is that since I’m leaving the pollen bearing anthers on, and I used the same pollen on a lot of different varieties, I’m getting some cross contamination from tree to tree. The flowers are insect pollinated. With no insects visiting the flowers, the pollen just sits there. So I’m collecting pollen with my brush while I’m dispensing it.

This contamination issue could be rectified simply enough by using separate brushes for each variety I’m pollinating. But with varieties I use a lot, like Appleoosa or Whitwick Pippin, I would have to keep track of a lot of different brushes. I can’t afford to throw brushes away, because a lot of pollen goes with them. I just ordered some microfiber makeup applicators, which are much smaller. Maybe those will allow me to use multiple brushes for a single pollen variety.

Perhaps I will come up with an elegant solution to avoiding cross contamination, but I’m not very motivated to. I actually kind of like the random factor thrown in the mix. Since I would only be contaminating the brush with other apples I use in breeding, the element of chaos that is thrown in is a focused chaos. I like having these wild card crosses. I think it is a good idea to contemplate what might cross well with what and to choose both parents, but it is not at all possible to predict exactly what the result will be. For instance, late in the season here I was just putting Wickson pollen onto Rubaiyat. But I’ve already pollinated Chestnut Crab, William’s Pride, Sunrise, Whitwick Pippin, Pink Parfait, King Wickson, Cherry Crush, Appleoosa, Golden Russet and several unnamed seedlings with the same Wickson brush. None of those accidental crosses sound so bad. And one apple can make seeds from multiple seed parents, so it would most likely be a seed here and there, not a whole apple with the wrong pollen.

In a couple of weeks I’ll have a very good idea of how pollinations went this year and how the old pollen that I used early in the season performed.

Centennial fruitlets in pollination bag.

Affiliate links to the organza Bags I’m using. I would recommend buying different colors so the different sizes are easy to recognize.

6x9: https://amzn.to/3xn19Jg

8x12: https://amzn.to/3uumWwO

12x16: https://amzn.to/3E4xRAr

16x24: https://amzn.to/3E1IP9N

Posted on April 12, 2022 .

Seeds and Scions for 2022 Imminent!

I’ve finally finished all the preparations for seed and scion sales and auctions. I have more seeds than ever, including many cross pollinations using my own seedlings like Black Strawberry, Cherub and Appleoosa. This year Cherub and Cherry Crush scions will be sold in the store instead of by auction, because I just have a lot of them. Details and schedule below. Here is the video I just shot on all of that and talking a little bit about Cherry Crush, Appleoosa, January Russet and Hard Candy Cider.

CHERRY CRUSH

Cherry Cox x Grenadine. Larger than Cox’s Orange Pippin and Cherry Cox, with a better fine grained texture. It has some of Cherry Cox’s cherry flavor, which is the distinguishing characteristic of this apple, though it is not as strong so far as Cherry Cox. It has some pink flesh, though not a lot of “red fleshed flavor”. After this year, I would guess I’ll be eating more of these in season than either of those two apples. That is not to say it will be better everywhere. This is not a climate where the Cox’s perform well. Then again, maybe Cherry Crush will develop more similar complex flavors that those apples are known for when it is grown in other climates. The only way to find out is to get them out growing in many different places, which is the job of ya’ll beta testers. High potential for breeding red fleshed apples and cherry flavored apples. It has none of the negative characteristics often found in red fleshed apples like low sugar and mealy flesh. Can’t wait to see how these develop over time and just eat a lot more of them.


HARD CANDY CIDER

This is a Grenadine x Lady William’s cross from 2011. It is a cider and juice apple to be sure, with too much tannin for casual dessert eating. The flavor can be intense, like a bunch of hard fruit candies mixed together. The flavors I can remember picking out are purple grape and watermelon, but there is more going on than that. I even thought about calling it Jolly Rancher after the once popular American hard fruit candies. It’s my hope that all of that flavor will persist through fermentation and make amazing cider. We’ll see. As little as I make cider anymore, someone else might make that cider first. I think it has shown a hint of red flesh, but I honestly can’t remember. It is not likely to be a major characteristic of the apple anyhow. High potential for breeding intensely flavored apples, one of the groups I think should be avidly pursued by amateur breeders. Sugar 20 or 21% as measured here, which is in my mid to low range with my nearly dry farmed apples. Out of the seedlings in the trial rows that have potential for cider, this might be the most promising. I’d probably class it as a mild bittersweet. As an intensely flavored apple, it can probably compete with anything here.


APPLEOOSA

Grenadine x Lady Williams. This apple ranks in the top few grenadine seedlings for intensity of berry and punch type flavors, probably only matched by Black Strawberry and maybe even stronger. It originally fruited some years ago and was one of the first seedlings to fruit. It was nearly killed by voles and has never recovered. After eating one apple, I guessed it would end up being an improvement on it’s problematic parent Grenadine. I still think that and have been using it for breeding and sending out pollen ever since. Only about a half dozen or so people have gotten scions from me, mostly breeders and patrons. I had a few scions this year and I think it’s time to send it out. It’s a novel apple with high breeding potential and I have barely used Grenadine since Appleoosa fruited. The flavors are very similar to grenadine, complex, with lots of berry flavors. The flesh is solid pink through as grown here. I’m not sure of the ripening season yet. It’s been all over the place in the few fruits I’ve managed to get with all the circumstantial problems I’ve had growing it out. Looking forward to hearing what it’s like elsewhere, and hopefully tasting some of it’s offspring someday.


JANUARY RUSSET

This is a rustic little russet, and almost surely a Grenadine x Lady William’s cross. I think russets are pretty, but this one maybe not so much lol. It’s small hard and totally useless until it ripens in January. When I first found it fruiting in the trial rows I was sure I would cull it out! Then Chris Homanics and I were walking the rows in January and determined that it was shaping up and worth eating. When it is finally ripe, it’s still pretty rustic. The flesh is very firm, old school style, not like modern apples. It has a nice acid/sugar balance and can develop a very rich flavor. Probably a decent pie apple too. Tannins are still on the high side, but very edible. If you compared the phytonutrient and antioxidant levels of this apple to any modern variety available in stores, I’m sure it would be a total blood bath ha ha. Bottom line is that it’s another winter hanging apple to add to the fruits available off the tree in mild winter areas. If I had this ripe along with my two latest apples Lady William’s and Pomo Sanel, I’d probably eat a lot more of these than them. It doesn’t seem to crack, but it is not the most durable of the late hanging apples either. Another cool thing about January Russet is that it is the only winter hanging apple I have that is a real russet. It’s not completely russeted, but it has a lot, and it just has a russety character to it. I think it should be crossed with excellent russets like Golden Russet, Golden Harvey and Ashmeads to the end of creating an excellent winter hanging russet. It is probably also just a good choice in breeding for pursuing winter hanging apples in general, and I’ve made a few crosses using it already. I don’t think growing this anywhere that temps commonly dip below about 20 F is a good bet. It may ripen off the tree if picked in Dec or earlier but it doesn’t seem like a good bet. As I can recall so far, the flesh tends to go rubbery instead of mealy, a desirable characteristic found in some long keeping apples like Roxbury Russet, Golden Russet and Gold rush. I took pictures this year, but alas, I can find none of them.


Some details of auctions and sales:

Apple Scion Wood Auctions will be on https://FigBid.com this year instead of ebay. They seem like a pretty cool small outfit and I haven’t heard any complaints about the platform. They are all 5 days long and start and end 5 minutes apart. They start on four different days.

Feb 26th: Black Strawberry, first auction starts at 6:00pm Pacific Standard Time (PST) and then one every five minutes

Feb 27th: Hard Candy Cider and Sugarwood first auction starts at 6:00 pm

Feb 28th: Appleoosa and January Russet, 6pm

March 1st: Flaxen, 6pm

Scion and Seed Sales

The store will be password protected for Patron early access from Feb 26th AM till Tues. Mar. 2nd AM. If that’s enough incentive to join my patreon, here’s the address :) http://www.patreon.com/skillcult

First store access for 25.00 and up patrons starts Saturday morning Feb 26th at 8:00pm PST and on 25.00 and up tier also gets an ongoing 25% discount for all store purchases.

10.00 tier Sunday 27th 8:00 AM PST and on

5.00 tier Mon. 28th 8:00 AM PST and on

3.00 tier Tue. mar. 1st 8:00 AM PST and on

Open to general public Wed. Mar. 2nd AM

A list of most of scions and seeds in the store this year is here: https://www.patreon.com/posts/62710422

Descriptions of most apples I sell or use in breeding is here to do your homework ahead of time: https://skillcult.com/apple-variety-descriptions

It has been quite a process setting all this up, so I’m looking forward to moving on to spring stuff like pruning, grafting, pollinating, collecting pollen, trying to get in at least a small garden for the summer and many other horticultural and non horticultural projects and content. This year is about doing the right things to try to expand my audience and getting my income up enough to make payments on a new piece of land. This year’s auctions and plant sales will finally get me out of the red and above where I was financially when I started SkillCult something like 8 years ago. Yes please. We passed the expensive hobby phase of SkillCult into the at least making a minimum living. It’s time for the lets fund land and projects phase! I’ve been working a little bit on mapping out some of my current and hopeful future projects on new pages on the website. I want to map more of that out so goals are more clear. Right now, it’s a work in progress.

Happy growing, grafting and whatever projects you all get up to this season. <3

Posted on February 25, 2022 .

Where to Find Scion Wood For Grafting

I have sold scion wood for some years. It helps fund me and gets a lot of fun, and in some cases rare, genetics out to people. But there are increasingly more options for finding scion wood and I very much encourage trading and sharing. Once you have some good varieties, you can trade with others through online platforms, while making new fruit friends. Here are a few good places to trade scions.

SCION EXCHANGE: http://www.scion-exchange.com/trade/ This is a new free platform that describes itself as like a dating site for scion traders. It needs more users to become more viable. Check it out.

NORTH AMERICAN SCION EXCHANGE: Some years ago, my friend Andy Russell was complaining that there were no scion exchanges in his area. I suggested he start one. Instead, he and Little John started the North American Scion Exchange on FaceBook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/scionexchange/ This group has become quite active, with 5.5k members.

Another option is just making connections in fruit and nut groups on the internet. My favorite community is https://growingfruit.org It’s a friendly place full of both newbs and more experienced growers. It also includes a trading forum.

What I have not found is a European community for trading. If anyone can help with that, let me know and I’ll add it. Fruiteirs.net it seems has shut down. I get a lot of requests to send even common varieties to Europe, but I discourage casual overseas trading because of disease issues. Someone please start a good community for growers to trade material in Europe. I’ll promote it. Some of my varieties and many American varieties are already over there and should be traded there. Or if there is one I don’t know about, let me know. And ditto for other options here in the states, or in Canada or any other country. I rarely trade much anymore, or spend a lot of time in online interest groups, so there may be more good trading spots out there.

I also want to plug one commercial scion source, https://fruitwoodnursery.com run by my friend Mark Robbi. I know he has BITE ME! but I will also be trying to get him more of my seedling varieties as they come out. He ships to Europe too, so eventually that may be a way to get some of my seedling varieties if you are on that side of the pond.

Scions and apple seeds will be for sale in my webstore soon. As usual my supporters on Patreon will get first access to seeds and scions. I’ve restructured my patron tiers with 4 levels of access. 25.00 dollar and up patrons will have first 24 hour access with a 25% discount. The next three tiers will each get 24 hour access consecutively, before opening sales to the general public. If you’ve ever thought about supporting my work through Patreon, this is a good time. I’m trying to save up money for a down payment on a new homestead and get my monthly income high enough to afford land payments. I will announce when the store opens to the public here and on social media Instagram and Facebook @skillcult Also on Youtube. If you want notifications of new videos on YouTube, you have to subscribe and hit the notifications bell. Subscribing alone doesn’t mean you will be informed of new content.

I have a new seedling out this year available in the webstore, Cherry Crush. Most other new seedling will be put up for auction. I will probably use https://FigBid.com this year instead of ebay. Cherub however may go in the webstore as I have a lot of scions this year. I’m still trying to decide that. They won’t be cheap, but again with the homestead fund!

Cherry Crush! Cherry Cox x Grenadine a pleasant apple with some of Cherry Cox’s cherry flavor and improved flesh quality over Cherry Cox and Cox’s Orange Pippin. I’m looking forward to getting some feedback on how it does elsewhere. The best endorsements I can give it is that I favored it over those two apples this year, and almost everything in that September season. I wanted to eat a lot more this year and am looking very forward to eating more in the coming season and into the future.

Happy grafting everyone, and look for an epic blog post on common grafting mistakes and solutions soon! 🍎 💚 🌳

Posted on February 19, 2022 .

Charcoal vs Ashes In the Garden, Very Useful, but Very Different

Burning wood creates some incredibly useful things. This video and blog post are about two of those products used in agriculture, charcoal and Ashes. They are both very useful, but very different, and have very different uses. I’ve perceived some confusion about these substances and their place in agriculture, so I hope I can clarify some of that.


If you apply enough heat to wood, it begins to break down and release gasses. If those gasses flare off, you get flames. If not, you get smoke. In the presence of oxygen, you are eventually left with a pile of white or grey stuff, which is the mineral content of the wood. If you stop the process, you have a chunk of light weight, easily broken, porous jet black carbon with no brown areas and no parts recognizable as wood. So charcoal is a shell of carbon left over once much of the substance and components of wood are destroyed by heat. Of course the charcoal still contains the minerals that are in ashes, but they are locked in this carbon matrix and not readily available.

Charcoal is stable and durable. It is capable of persisting in the soil for a very long time. Of course how long may depend on the type of charcoal, conditions, soil etc. but it is no doubt capable at times of persisting for millennia. While some of the minerals in ashes may be persistent, ash is essentially a very short term fertilizer.

CHARCOAL

First off, there is some debate about whether it is appropriate to call black cinders from the fire charcoal, or “biochar”. In video comments I’ve had people argue forcefully that any char produced in the presence of oxygen, the way I usually make it in open piles or pits, is not biochar, but just charcoal. Others argue forcefully that it is not charcoal, yet when asked what it is, they have no appropriate simple term. If I handed a chunk of that half burnt shell of carbon to most people, they would say it is charcoal. Words are not things and language is a product of living, changing culture.

If wood is heated under a very low to zero oxygen environment, it undergoes destruction, similar to an open burning fire, but more of the carbon structure is retained. It will be denser, harder and have a higher fuel value than wood that is burned with more available oxygen. At some point, all the gasses will be driven off and it will just stay red hot, without burning up, because there is no oxygen to finish the process. Once I was part of an iron smelting experiment. When we dug the kiln out the next day, I found pieces of charcoal embedded in slag. That slag, which is a collection of melted unwanted minerals melted from the iron ore, had been white hot, molten goo the night before, yet the charcoal survived it. It survived because there was no oxygen in that part of the kiln to finish turning that charcoal to ashes.

If I start a fire, then quench the coals at a certain point before they burn to ash, I end up with a softer and less dense product. This is closer to the way I usually produce char. The difference is quite real. I actually need to burn some of that low oxygen hard charcoal soon for my forge, because it burns longer. I can get away with using the softer stuff I usually produce, and it gets plenty hot, but I have to use more of it. The common argument is that char made by pyrolysis is better for agricultural use as well. That may be. The question that interests me more is whether less carefully prepared open burn char works and is it a viable option in some contexts. In my experience, it is. So grammarists and fundamentalists can argue the finer points or masturdebate over the terminology all they want. I’m going to call it all charcoal or biochar, alternately, because that is what most people will understand. I think if the term biochar persists, it will come to mean all charred plants used for soil improvement and potting mixes. I am not particularly attached to what it’s called, I just use the language that is common. I would prefer to live in a society that has a more sophisticated nomenclature for chars, but I’m not sure I’m interested in trying to bring it about.

Charcoal has some interesting properties that make it potentially very useful in soil improvement. One is that it is a magnet for all kinds of substances. It works by grabbing onto them. This is called aDsorption. So, it can hold soil nutrients strongly, but plants can still use them. I grow a lot of my cactus in char and when you dig one up, the roots are covered with pieces of charcoal firmly attached by root hairs. If I fertilize a potted cactus with a high char content, I’m basically pouring my nutrients through a very effective nutrient filter. One would think that much less nutrient escapes out of the bottom of the pot when watered or fertilized.

Char is also aBsorbent, meaning it can soak up liquid like a sponge. In my experience, it seems to be capable of holding a lot of water, but probably dries out faster than either organic matter or clay. In some soils, at some percentages, it probably helps with water retention or reduces it. My jury is still out on that, but suspect that high percentages can cause some soils and potting mixes to actually dry out faster.

It also acts as an aggregate if you need that. My cactus mix is 50% charcoal, it is ground up to any where from powder to 3/8 inch chunks, so the mix is very well drained. I don’t need to add any other of the usual drainage stuff like red lava, pearlite or sand. For many plants, this might be too much and I would probably go with more like 20% and down. But it’s great for cactus. But there is no soil in potting mix, the rest is mostly peat moss, coconut fiber or shredded bark. In actual soil it can increase friability a great deal. I have loam here, which is not at all bad to work with. But with 10% char, it’s lovely to work with. I have not personally tested it on clay soils, but I definitely would post haste if I had to deal with that unfortunate circumstance.

In sandy and silty soils, char can serve some of the purposes of organic matter, plus some more, but it is persistent. Sandy, airy soils need organic matter badly, but they also lose it super fast as it is oxidized quickly due to the very high porosity of the soil. Sandy or silty soil also sucks at holding nutrients. Clay is quite good at holding nutrients. I you can get it, add some and make loam. But charcoal is a partial substitute in that department and should increase water holding, nutrient retention and probably soil life.

One of the common theories about why char can improve soil performance, is the microbe theory. Charcoal contains all the pore space naturally found in wood from the capillary system that moves liquid around the tree. I imagine it contains even more from the charring process, but either way there is a lot of pore space in a piece of charcoal. The important bit is that lots of pore space also means a whole lot of surface area. There is some statistic floating around out there that references football fields to describe how much surface area a small piece of charcoal may contain. So that means a small piece of char is a huge habitat for microscopic organisms.

I imagine that both the microorganisms and the nutrient grabbing capacity are important, but what we really care about is whether it works. And it seems to work. There is a lot of research you can avail yourself of (cautiously I would advise) and lots of personal accounts. The stuff that got me most excited was research I did on charcoal used for soil amending in Europe and North America in the 19th century.

But the idea that knowledge is transferable is somewhat dubious, and no matter how much information we consume, we know very little for sure and even less about how things will actually work for us in the ground war of farming and gardening. So I always advise people to do their own small, simple science experiments on using char to figure out what percentage to use and how it performs or doesn’t in your soils, and with your gardening style and crops.

So charcoal is awesome, but it’s not fertilizer. In fact, if you bury raw char, it will sap nutrients out of your soil and stunt most plants for about a year. Remember, it’s a nutrient trap, so it has to charge itself up and reach some kind of equilibrium before benefits start. Ashes on the other hand, are definitely fertilizer. In either case neither is necessarily a substitute for adding other things to your soil to make things grow. Don’t expect miracles. My observation of char beds is that the char seems to make better use of the amendments I do add, not that it replaces the need for them.

ASHES

Everyone has heard of slash and burn agriculture. You go to an area of forest, cut and burn everything down, spread the ashes around and plant your crops. People have done it forever in some parts of the world, and not just in the tropics. It works great, but only for a short time. It doesn’t last. Who got the warm fuzzies when I said slash and burn? Probably no one. Even the name sounds bad lol. The reason slash and burn has such negative connotations is that it is very temporary and you have to move in a few years when all the nutrients released from the ashes are used up. So, to an outside observer, it looks horrible. This great video shows how that can be a misinterpretation.

Slash and burn agriculturists that not only are not destroying the forests, but building them in barren grasslands. I’m sure in some situations that slash and burn is a bad idea. One would be in high population densities. The forest needs time to recover, decades sometimes. Or doing it on a very large scale as in the exploitation of the Amazon basin. Anything applied mindlessly or without principal has the potential to go wrong.

A good way to think of wood and other biomass is that plants have done a lot of work to slowly gather all of the stuff that a tree or plant is made of. That is a valuable thing. The bulk is of course carbon gathered from the air as CO2, which you can retain much of as charcoal. However, the minerals, a much smaller portion, are quite valuable and harder to come by. If you compost wood or burn it to ash, the minerals can be reused in other plants. So ash really is a fertilizer. It contains all those many trace minerals that the plant gathers in smaller or greater amounts and some important ones in significant amounts.

Most commonly ashes are thought of as a source of potassium, which is one of the 3 plant macronutrients. They also contain a significant, if lesser, amount of anothe macronutrient, phosphorous. The other thing they contain in abundance is calcium as calcium oxide or hydroxide and if they’re old or get wet, it will be more as calcium carbonate. One source I just read said that wood ash averages about 20% lime, but it can be higher. Most soils benefit from liming, so that portion is very valuable, and being finely divided into powder, is it also very easy to use and very quickly available.

I use ashes in my garden frequently. Garden beds get a sprinkling each time they are prepared, or at least once a year. Occasionally I’ll dump a load on some favored fruit tree as well. But I’ve been doing this for decades and have observed, as slash and burn cultures show us, that it is a very temporary effect. So an important difference between ashes and charcoal is lasting power.

What the world needs now is to move toward more stable, sustainable agriculture. Charcoal seems to have the ability to create lasting fertility. If you have ashes, use them. I make plenty in my woodstoves. The most of my brush gets charred, because it is more compelling and potentially much longer lasting. There are few things we can do to our garden soils that have a truly profound lasting effect. If I had to move to somewhere in the woods to start over, would I make charcoal? or ashes? If I had no external inputs, I would do what people have always done, clear a patch of forest, and burn everything to ash to get good crops the first few years. But then I would start importing more wood from around and gradually start amending that soil with charcoal. All other stuff that makes good soil, bones, kitchen and crop wastes, dead animals, urine and feces would go back into the cycle to charge that char and build lasting fertility to the extent possible.

I hope this is helpful to understand the differences between these two very useful, but very different substances.


BIOCHAR PLAYLIST

Posted on November 15, 2021 and filed under BioChar, Garden Stuff, Homesteading.

Updates on New Seedling Apples

Here is a video update with some thoughts and pictures about some new seedling apples that were first tasted last month.

Three of the new seedling apples tasted last month have turned out to be quite interesting and probably all keepers. All three had enough fruit (10 to 30 apples each) to get a good idea of what they are about as I ate my way through their late september to mid October season. Having enough apples of each allowed me to taste specimens all the way from underripe to overripe and mostly in between.

Cherry Cox x Grenadine: This has no number because the label was lost. The more I think about it, the more I think I made the cross, but decided to only pursue the crosses that had Grenadine as the seed parent. Or, I may have just lost track of the tag. Regardless, in a row of unlabelled seedlings from my first year of cross pollinations, I picked out several with redder bark and leaves to keep, hoping they would have red flesh. So far 4 of 5 do, including Black Strawberry. The fifth one hasn’t fruited yet. Most were grafted onto foundation trees, but this one I left to grow in place in the garden. 10 years later, it finally made a lot of fruit. I can tell it’s a cherry cox grenadine cross from both flavor, appearance.

P1330471.jpeg

It has better texture than cherry cox or cox’s orange pippin, more of a modern style apple flesh, whereas the Coxes tend toward grainy and coarse. As they ripen the flesh tends to become tender. This apple is fairly crisp and easy to eat, with plenty of juice. The sugar acid balance is very nice, and a little more toward tart than many of my seedling apples are. The flavor is nice, fruity, often a distinct cherry flavor. The cherry flavor has not been as strong as a really strong Cherry Cox, but it’s a definite stand out trait of the fruit. Like other cherry flavored apples, there is also a hint of Anise, but it stays in it’s place as a background flavor for the most part, which is a good thing as far as I’m concerned.

IMG_2748.jpeg

The size is variable, but the largest ones are good sized apples. The flesh can vary from no pink at all, to significant pink that shows through the translucent skin. It does not have a lot of what I would call “red flesh flavor” (usually berry or fruit punch-like) but it does have some. The Thin, easy to eat skin has a yellow background with coarse blushing and streaking. It’s a nice looking apple, if a little chaotic. The peak eating season here was about the first two weeks of October. I have seen scab on it, and I suspect it will be pretty susceptible, but it was a very light scab year, so I’m not sure.

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I like this apple a lot. I would as soon or sooner eat them this year as anything else ripe in this early fall season. It’s main competition would be Sweet 16 and Sunrise. If I ask the questions, do I want a big branch full of these every year? and how does this compare to other apples of the season?, it’s all good news. It will definitely be headed out into the world and most likely scions will be available this winter via auction. The tree is on it’s own roots and good sized, so I should have a lot of scions which might keep the price down. It does not have a name yet, but some possible names are Mon Cheri, Mon Cherry, CherryO, or CandyO (Like The Cars song) Feel free to vote or throw ideas out. Someone on Youtube suggested sunset, but Cherry Sunset is a bit of a mouthful.

Cherry Cox x Grenadine, not a bad looker!  Especially using the mason jar as a light filter trick.

Cherry Cox x Grenadine, not a bad looker! Especially using the mason jar as a light filter trick.


Next up, introducing Amberwine. Now who would not want to try an apple with a name like that? This is a Williams’ Pride x Vixen cross (2015 #10) The shape is uneven and blocky at times. When ripe, the background color is rich amber yellow. The best ripeness indicator is when the bottom goes from light yellow to this rich amber hue. The flesh also yellows somewhat when ripe. The flesh is crisp and firm, hard when under ripe. The cells are fine grained. The pulp is a little odd. It loses it’s juice pretty easily, leaving a fine pulp, almost like wood flour. It’s a little odd, but it’s not excessive in quantity, it’s just different.

Some lovely rich hues on Amberwine and a subtly rich wine-like taste to match the skin and flesh color.

Some lovely rich hues on Amberwine and a subtly rich wine-like taste to match the skin and flesh color.

This apple is in what should be called the savory, or umami class. The flavor is more along the lines of sophisticated and subtle than sensational. If sensational apples like Sweet 16 belong in the candy isle, this would go in the wine and cheese aisle. It does remind of wine a bit, probably because umami is also a component of wine. Wines without it tend to taste thin, like mushrooms, meat, broths, seaweed and other savory foods, umami lends a roundness, body and depth to wine and to this apple. I didn’t try it with cheese, but it seems a perfect cheese apple, maybe better than a russet. I know, I know, it seems blasphemous, but very few people have even tasted these savory apples and they are another animal. While this variety does not have the levels of that characteristic seen in apples like Wickson and Vixen, it is the dominant effect and the trait that makes it compelling eating.

The season was early to mid October here. It’s parent Williams’ Pride is very scab resistant, so fingers crosses for good results on scab resistance in coming years. I really enjoyed eating these and wish I had more. I will likely have limited scion wood this year from the small tree.


Williams’ Pride x Vixen 15/10: This one is very much like an early, larger version of BITE ME! Just as it’s season has ended in mid October, BITE ME! is starting to drop a few apples. So that timing alone makes it interesting. It is a medium sized, usually very conical apple. The flesh, like BITE ME!, is best described as tender and coarse. It is also in the Savory/Umami group. So far though, it has less of that flavor than BITE ME! BITE ME! is a scab magnet, so I’m hoping this will show scab resistance and improve in flavor over the next couple of years. For now, I’m holding it back for further assessment.

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Just a couple of days ago, I ate the last apple of each of these three. I consumed them one right after the other and was impressed with all of them. The cherry cox seedling had a distinct and yummy cherry flavor, with good texture and nice acid/sugar balance. Amberwine had the intriguing, unique depth and richness of its savory class. And the Early Bite-me-like one was just nice to eat, with enough malty character to make me very happy to chase after it and finish it. Of the little group of 7 Williams’ Pride x Vixen crosses, I’ve now tasted 4. Amberwine is a keeper, Twang was worth a second look (though it’s probably going to be a cull), 15/5 is worth further testing and 15/2 was large tasty and promising, but only produced one apple in August. These results are very impressive and there are 3 more yet to fruit in coming years. Look for scion auction announcements in this winter sometime.

Posted on October 16, 2021 .

Tasting New Apple Seedlings for 2021!

Here are two videos of tasting some new seedling apples that have fruited for the first time in 2021. The first video is tasting late August apples and the second is tasting some of the apples that were not ripe in the first video. Below are some written thoughts and notes.

It is an interesting year so far for new apple seedlings. All of new ones for 2021 that I’ve tasted are somewhat promising. They consist of three William’s Pride x Vixen crosses 15/5, 15/10 and 15/2 One Maypole x Chestnut Crab 15/1 and an unlabelled apple that is clearly a cherry cox offspring and almost certainly Grenadine x Cherry Cox. I also re-tasted another Williams’ Pride x Vixen cross that fruited last year,Twang. All of these are probably better than Twang, and I think I will eventually be culling it out in favor of one or more of the others.

As usual, there are some obvious parent traits coming through in most of the apples. It is the exception to not be able to spot at least some traits of one or more parents in seedlings, even though the apple may be pretty different than either.

The Cherry Cox seedling is the most obviously like it’s parent. It has similar markings and the cherry flavor was passed down, which I’m very happy about as I have been wondering if it would be. Cherry Cox is a sport, and may be genetically identical to Cox’s Orange Pippin. But one bud off of a Cox’s Orange Pippin decided to grow different fruit with cherry flavor and the named variety cherry cox came from grafts of that one unique branch. This is probably akin to hitting a genetic switch in the tree that makes the existing cherry flavor genes already in the genetic code actually just switch on. As such, I was not sure the flavor trait would be passed down. It also has anise flavor, which I’m hoping will be less than the cherry flavor as it ripens. The apple unfortunately is still not really ripe yet. But given what I’ve eaten so far, it will probably be quite good. Stay tuned. It will have to compete head to head with Cherry Cox and may ripen at a similar time as well. It seems to be large, juicy and like Cherry Cox, somewhat tart. It has a hint of pink flesh, so it may have good potential as breeding stock to move the red flesh and cherry flavor traits forward in coming generations.

Of the three new Williams’ Pride x Vixen crosses, all show some promise, but I doubt I have had any at their best yet.

WP x Vix 15/2 ripened in August and was very enjoyable eating. I ate the whole thing, right up to the holes a bird pecked in it and added the seeds to the early apple seed blend I’ll have in the store this winter. I’m very encouraged by that one.

WP x Vix 15/5 is a neat conical shape is ripening about now and probably through September. It has some of the malty/umami flavor of the Wickson crab apple derived lineage and so far appears to be a lot like an early version of my much loved seedling apple, BITE ME! That would be great, because I can eat a lot of BITE ME! and it would be most excellent to extend the season. The essential character of both is mild flavors and lots of rich, malty, umami character. There is not a lot of aromatic flavors and fruitiness to them. Vixen is also like that, but stronger flavored. This new cone shaped apple has a very scab resistant parent in William’s Pride. With some luck, we may get an early, scab resistant BITE ME! substitute, which would be great, as that apple is very scab prone. This year there is very little scab, so I can’t say until it is grown in a bad scab year.

The final William’s Pride x Vixen seedling WP x Vix 15/10 is really just ripening now, but it may be in between the other two in character, with more fruitiness and still some umami. If I wasn’t in the beginning of a long fast right now, I’d go taste one right now! Again, stay tuned.

The opposite of those umami apples is the Maypole x Chestnut cross. This one, like it’s parent Maypole, is a columnar tree. It grows short jointed with few side branches. It is essentially a genetic dwarf. When I bit into that one, I was pretty floored by the intensity of the flavor. It is very much in one of my favorite apple flavor categories, fruit candy. I think there is definitely some watermelon flavor in there, but it is more complex than that. The strongest ones are almost like someone added a drop of artificial fruit candy flavor. While the malty/umami apples are all base flavor and character, rounded, full and rich, this little apple is all intense high fruit notes with no base at all. I think the downside of this apple will be the texture, which so far is not awesome. It is along the lines of coarse and tender. It is ripe well before it looks ripe, so I may just have missed the boat on the ripening window, but I can tell it is not going to be durable or have a very fun texture. Not that I won’t grow it just for the flavor, but if that one thing were different, I think we’d have a pretty solid apple, and a columnar dwarf to boot. I hope the flavor will translate in other climates. I can’t imagine anyone biting into it and it not really getting their attention. I feed a lot of apples to people, whenever I can, and some apples are eaten eaten without much comment, but others demand your attention. This is one of those.

The apples are small crabs, about the size of Maypole. Given that is has red fleshed genes, it should be a good breeder to pursue columnar and red fleshed apples. I can especially see crossing it with my pink fleshed seedling crab, Cherub, which could use some of this apples refreshing tartness.

I don’t know if I will make any of these new seedlings available this year or not. I have a lot of apple seedling crosses that I made this year and some very interesting ones. Most of those seeds will be sold this year as I’m having to halt the apple breeding project in anticipation of moving off of this property. Property is too expensive here for me to get anything right now and my cashable equity in this property is probably going to be only enough for half a down payment on a lesser piece of land. I spent what seemed like weeks this year grafting seedlings onto foundation trees and grafting new modern and heritage apple varieties for trial and I can’t afford to do that again and have to move it all somewhere later. It’s too bad, because I’m just getting into using my own seedlings in breeding, which is where it gets really interesting. I can keep trees here for as long as I want and move stuff slowly, but if I’m not here, I can’t take care of borers, voles and bears as needed and the trees are certainly in jeopardy. I don’t have to move out right away, thankfully, so I have time to figure something out and move everything over years to come.

What I will not do, is move it all to someone else’s property. I’ve already played that game and watched other talented orchardists and breeders lose or move their work over and over again because they can’t afford land. Many of the most interesting people in terms of producing new varieties or doing conservation work, are landless and it’s a continual issue. That is because it is hard to do that work well and make money at the same time. They are different jobs. It ends up being that the people that care the most about the altruistic side of that kind of work, have the least resources to pursue our interests. And by our interests I mean all of our interests. The most interesting people I know in this field are landless and trying to figure out how to get land to pay for the research and development stuff they should be doing.

Circumstances being as they are, I may never make it back into to this project given my age. Just re-establishing trial plot or foundation trees, which I’m 15 years into here, is a big long term project. I sunk in deep roots here and now I have to tear those out and try to plant them somewhere else. My energy has been very low lately. I’ve spent about two weeks out of the last 20 days almost completely out of commission. I just finished season 8 of inkmasters and I am not even interested in tattooing! So, I really don’t have the energy right now to even move to a new place and get it set up, let alone increase my income at the same time to pay for it and transplant my projects to the extent that I can. I may just take off for a year or two and try to get my health together outside of any other distractions. If I don’t get my energy and health up to par, the apple breeding project and any other projects, just aren’t going to happen well, if at all.

In the mean time, I will keep tasting and assessing the new apples that fruit from stuff I’ve already planted and grafted for as long as I’m here. And I don’t think I’ll lose too much of the genetics I’ve already created and collected. So, the best stuff should still end up getting out there to other growers and breeders. But as far as me growing seeds out, that would be a big mistake. I may stop selling seeds and pollen as well, but we’ll see. I don’t really want to go through those motions while not being able to engage in breeding anymore myself. I don’t need to keep rubbing that reality in my own face. I should have scions seeds and pollen this winter and spring at least.

I hope ya’ll are staying healthy and safe in these increasingly trying times.

Posted on September 13, 2021 .

Article on People Planting Seedling Apples, Including Me

https://modernfarmer.com/2021/04/why-citizen-scientists-are-working-to-cultivate-new-apple-varieties/

https://modernfarmer.com/2021/04/why-citizen-scientists-are-working-to-cultivate-new-apple-varieties/

Here is a short article in Modern Farmer about people that are growing apples from seed. It has a nod to me, and a couple quotes. I was not actually interviewed, but the author pulled a few lines from some messages we passed back and forth. I’ll take it.

I’m happy to see this idea gaining momentum, and I think this is just the beginning. Once people start getting results and see the potential, they’ll be hooked like me, and even more people will start doing it. My contention for some time now has been that the explosion in American apple diversity stemmed from a chaos of interbreeding and seed planting, and that the best way to regain that diversity, but with a general trend toward improvement, is a more focused chaos. Meaning…

plant a lot of seeds

and a wide genetic variety of seed

but not just any seed, seed from a focused genetic pool, or pools…

This dovetails with a concept I’ve been fomenting for a few years, and which is starting to gel into a communicable and I think potentially viral idea- Community seedbank trees and populations. More on that in the future. Read the article here: https://modernfarmer.com/2021/04/why-citizen-scientists-are-working-to-cultivate-new-apple-varieties/

I’ve begun collecting pollen from/for the 2021 bloom.  Once I get most of the pollen collected, I’ll list if for sale.  It may or may not be too late to pollinate this year, but it can be saved over until next spring too.  I hope to have more pollen…

I’ve begun collecting pollen from/for the 2021 bloom. Once I get most of the pollen collected, I’ll list if for sale. It may or may not be too late to pollinate this year, but it can be saved over until next spring too. I hope to have more pollen than ever from my own crosses this year, and already have one packet from the early new seedling Twang, as pictured. It just depends on how many bloom, how much they bloom and how much I can stay on top of collecting regularly enough to catch it.


Posted on April 8, 2021 .

When Scions Start Sprouting Before Grafting, Strategies for Success

It is not too uncommon to end up with scions that are sprouting before they are grafted out. If you graft for very long, you will encounter this problem, and probably sooner than later, as it is not entirely avoidable. For example, I will end up grafting dozens of them this year and do many years. Sometimes by my own fault for not harvesting scion soon enough, or not grafting early enough, sometimes for reasons beyond my control.

The problem may be very obvious, with significant green showing on the buds, and other times, the buds are just swelling out and maybe showing just a little bit of green or white. While buds that start pushing on a scion are not ideal, they are not necessarily a death sentence. This article will look at some strategies that may increase survival rates on sticks that have broken dormancy.

These buds are not showing green or white yet, but they are definitely swollen, so they will soon.  There is still a lot of hope for grafting sticks with buds like this, but it helps to take some steps to improve chances success.

These buds are not showing green or white yet, but they are definitely swollen, so they will soon. There is still a lot of hope for grafting sticks with buds like this, but it helps to take some steps to improve chances success.

Even if you harvest good dormant scions, sometimes you’ll get some that just really want to grow early and may begin to sprout in the refrigerator. Crab apples and apples hybridized with crab genetics can be especially early bloomers and will not uncommonly start pushing in refrigeration. Other times they may get warm during transport and want to wake up. Recently my usual mail carrier quit and didn’t pick up the outgoing packages of scions I dropped off, which I didn’t find out til 4 days late. At the same time, the huge bag of rare scions Chris Homanics sent me was sent back to the post office awaiting pick up in a heated building. Stuff happens.

You may also be delayed in cutting scions or find something late in the season that you really want to graft right away. In that case, you have more leeway about what to choose from the tree. You can look for shoots that have dormant buds. Often small dormant buds are abundant at the bases of the previous year’s growth, between one year’s growth and the next, or on older shoots.

One time I got some scions very late in the season. And then I put them in the fridge and didn’t graft them. Then I didn’t graft them some more. Finally, on a day in early July, during a heat wave, over 100º F for several days, I grafted them out. Some were showing green and pushing out, but quite a few still survived. Don’t give up on scions too easily. They sometimes heal quickly and start receiving resources from the stock to grow and survive on. Just graft them and see if it works.

If the scion is showing green, I recommend leaving it long, but removing some of the buds. Here is the rationale, which I’m not claiming is correct, it just makes sense to me. The scion needs resources, food, minerals and water. In general, what seems more likely to survive, a 4 inch scion, or a 1 inch scion? A 4 inch scion has more resources, more nutriment, more water. On the other hand it also has more surface area to lose water, but my money is going to be on longer scions having greater survival potential. But, in order to increase survival, sometimes we need to balance the amount of growth with the amount of wood, so lets talk about that.

When you transplant a plant, it generally pays to attend to the ratio of top to root. If the roots are damaged or cut away, or if for any other reason there is very little root to pump water and nutrients out of the soil and into the top, the leaves and shoots should be reduced so that the roots can keep up with the leaf area. If I cut most of the roots from a tree, but leave the top alone, all those shoots sprout and try to grow and the roots just can’t support all of that growth losing water every day.

I see scions in the same way. If there is plenty of time for the graft to heal, then it has access to the resources that the root system of the stock provides. If however, it is slow to heal, or the shoots on the scion come out too fast, or there are too many shoots and leaves early in the season, then we have a problem. Those early shoots will suck the scion dry and it may fail. Presumably, the more green a bud is showing, the faster it is losing water, and the sooner it will make leaves.

A long scion also has more food- more minerals, more carbohydrate. So for those reasons, if a scion has 6 buds and I would normally framework it onto a tree with all 6 buds, but some are sprouting, I’ll remove most down to as little as two, or even one in extreme cases, and cut the scion just above the top most remaining bud.

This late harvested Chestnut Crab scion has some very sprouted out buds.  But the remaining buds look pretty good.  Some scions will sprout at the base first, some at the tip, and some are a bit random.  This one has good sized very dormant bud, C n…

This late harvested Chestnut Crab scion has some very sprouted out buds. But the remaining buds look pretty good. Some scions will sprout at the base first, some at the tip, and some are a bit random. This one has good sized very dormant bud, C near the top, and a few more tucked around just below the tip from small to tiny. If I wanted a long scion for frameworking, I would cut just the tip off, leaving some if the small dormant buds below it as well as bud C, remove A & B and leave the rest. If I were bench grafting onto small stocks to make new trees, or if I just wanted to make the most of the scion wood, I could make 2 short scions with two buds each from the lower section, and a third scion with bud C and the dormant buds at the tip, for a total of 3 grafts. With good grafts, good healing weather and protection from drying out, all three short scions would probably survive and grow well. In fact, this scion isn’t even that much of a challenge, because in spite of some buds being very sprouted, there are quite a few that are pretty dormant.

So, I remove most of the buds, and leave a few of the most dormant. If there are any larger dormant buds in good shape, leave one or more of them preferably, as the larger buds on a scion are generally primed to grow, while the very small buds are the tree’s insurance against things like browsing animals, late frost damage, or any other kind of losses that require those little back up buds to rise to the occasion. It is no accident that many dormant buds are often packed close together at the base of shoots. I the shoot is ripped off, or stripped of vegetation by a flood or browsing animal, they often remain intact to regrow the tree. If there is nothing better on the stick look for those tiny dormant buds near shoot bases or tips of the previous year’s growth.

While this scion has buds that are definitely pushing out, it also has dormant buds packed round the base.  Three are pretty obvious (one is on the backside, but you can see the bump on the stem below the lowest sprouting bud).  But, there are also …

While this scion has buds that are definitely pushing out, it also has dormant buds packed round the base. Three are pretty obvious (one is on the backside, but you can see the bump on the stem below the lowest sprouting bud). But, there are also more small dormant buds at the very base, represented by those lines you can see. Some are too small to see, or are just specks. How close to the base of the shoot these are, and how many, is highly variable. In this case, you might be able to pull off a short graft union and leave one or two of them. Personally, I would make a short graft, leave one or two of the dormant buds, pick off the lower swollen bud, cut above the higher pushing swollen bud, and seal the whole thing. If you left both pushing buds and ignored the rest, there is still a decent chance it would make it. But it’s better to tip things in our favor a little bit.

If you only have large buds on the scion and they are all showing green, leave just one or two of the least sproutingest. But if there are some good small dormant buds, I might leave just those and get rid of all the pushing buds. Small buds will usually be slow to develop and grow out, giving the graft plenty of time to heal. They may also result in weak growth unfortunately, but not necessarily, and if you get almost any growth you’ll have some material to work with next year to graft elsewhere.

One way that scions lose moisture more readily is through cuts of any kind in the bark. So if you pick off the sprouting buds, you leave open wounds that will lose moisture more quickly. Either way, seal the entire scion with something, including the buds you leave. Either wrap it in parafilm, or paint it with grafting paint to keep most of the moisture in. The buds should be able to push through the seal, but just check them in a week or two and provide a little birthing help if they need it.

This bud was showing green when grafted, as you can see under the paint.  The worst sprouting buds on the scion were removed and the whole scion painted over with doc farwells grafting seal or in this case, heal and seal.

This bud was showing green when grafted, as you can see under the paint. The worst sprouting buds on the scion were removed and the whole scion painted over with doc farwells grafting seal or in this case, heal and seal.

Same bud as above, 6 days later, having pushed right through the grafting seal.

Same bud as above, 6 days later, having pushed right through the grafting seal.

In addition to these expedients, anything else the prevents desiccation and generally favors graft survival is good, like wrapping in tinfoil, or putting a paper bag over the graft, or any other shading. I’ve grafted stuff with only sprouting buds and no really dormant buds, and had success by just leaving the least sprouted buds, then sealing the buds and scion well and shading.

So if you get too busy to get your grafting done, or your scions get lost in the mail for an extra week, or the scions you cut when dead dormant decide to wake up in the crisper drawer of your fridge anyway, or you find a bag you forgot about hiding under a bag of slimy old carrots, don’t give up on them too easily.

Posted on April 2, 2021 .

Grafting Skinny Scion Wood, Tips for Success

Skinny scions happen. Maybe you get some scions through trading, you open the package. and there are some very scrawny little sticks in there. Or, you find a very old tree somewhere that is completely overgrown and just puts on very short, small weak growth. Or, you encounter a tiny twiggy variety of apple, It could be a species crab apple, or maybe some variety that just naturally has very thin shoots, like Pendragon. These things are all likely to happen to you if you graft for very long. I try to send out decent sized scion wood when I sell it, but some varieties just have weak growth and better a skinny Pendragon scion than no Pendragon scion right?

I personally use a lot of skinny scions. I get them in trades and I also sell or trade off most of my best and largest scion wood and use the little stuff for my own grafting. This year I auctioned off all the best scions of my new crab apple, Cherub, and I have a bunch of tiny sticks that I grafted to make a few trees, to produce more scion wood going forward. Here I will discuss methods for grafting very small scions, and tricks to increase success.

By skinny I mean 1/8 inch and smaller at the base where the graft is made. Really 1/8 isn’t too terribly small, but the smaller they get, the less resources the stick has to survive on through that vulnerable period before the graft heals. Scions are prone to drying out until that healing takes place, and they can begin receiving life supporting moisture and nutrients from the stock. It doesn’t take much to dry out a small diameter short stick. tip cuts also dry out faster. They have thinner, less waxy, less developed bark, allowing the scions to dehydrate easily.

Scions may also dry out even before they are put on the tree, during storage or transportation. It never hurts to clip a little off the end of the scion to expose fresh wood, and then soak the butts in water in the refrigerator overnight to plump the little guys up before grafting. So give those little guys a drink to be sure they are well hydrated before grafting.

Before we get into grafting skinny scions, another option is to just graft older wood. While the conventional approach is to graft wood from the previous years growth when dormant grafting, I’ve grafted wood that is at least 4 years old and had it take fine. So, for instance if you find an old overgrown tree and the largest growth from the previous year is tiny short twigs, you could cut back into slightly fatter wood from the year before, and use that thicker, older portion to make the graft. Leaving the tip of younger wood intact as well, where the vigorous active buds are.

Skinny scions of March Hedge, a hedgerow apple that I discovered.  There is not a lot here to work with if I were only using last year’s growth.  But you can graft onto the previous years growth, which is usually considerably larger in diameter, and…

Skinny scions of March Hedge, a hedgerow apple that I discovered. There is not a lot here to work with if I were only using last year’s growth. But you can graft onto the previous years growth, which is usually considerably larger in diameter, and leave the tips on to grow out. Often, the tips have the most vigorous vegetative buds, but if you can find good buds on two year old wood, you can just use that as well. Often in two year old wood you’ll have buds that are either fruiting buds, or tending in that direction, but those buds can still grow into shoots. Sometimes they are hesitant to do so, but they usually will.

A graft made with scion wood that was at least 3, probably 4, maybe 5 years old and rather large in diameter.

A graft made with scion wood that was at least 3, probably 4, maybe 5 years old and rather large in diameter.

Same graft as above after one year’s growth.  The yellow painted parts are all the original graft wood, complete with fruit buds.  The branch set a few weak fruits the year of grafting, but they didn’t mature.  Conventional practice would not favor …

Same graft as above after one year’s growth. The yellow painted parts are all the original graft wood, complete with fruit buds. The branch set a few weak fruits the year of grafting, but they didn’t mature. Conventional practice would not favor such an approach to grafting, being more about young, vigorous wood, but the possibilities are actually much broader than most think.

CUTTING TECHNIQUES

Skinny scions really bend away from the knife, because they lack rigidity. The cutting technique I use the most to prepare scions involves using the thumb to support the cut, by pushing up on the scion with the thumb from beneath, right under the blade. The thumb follows the knife for the entire cut, so the cut is stabilized and supported and the scion can’t get away. This technique works for long slope cuts, whichever type of graft is being made. You can see it here in this video https://youtu.be/B32nKvZMzFY?t=243 I highly recommend watching that whole video, but that link is time stamped to the relevant part.

What I didn’t show in that video, is making tongue cuts on skinny scions for whip and tongue grafts. Basically, I lay the scion right along my forefinger for support. I often use this position for any tongue cuts, but especially with very small scion wood. Again, the support keeps the wood stable preventing it from bending away from the knife. You can see that here- https://youtu.be/aKV6gPmzeDU?t=591 It can be delicate work, but tongues can be cut in very small wood. The trick to cutting tongues is to slide the knife along, so that it is slicing, rather than just pushing forward on the kinfe.

WHICH GRAFT?

So, what types of grafts can we, or should be make with those skinny, hard to handle, easily desiccated scions? Which graft you chose will be partly determined by the size of the stock and scion you are working with. We don’t always have a choice what we are grafting, or what we are grafting it onto, so I’m going to suggest some basic options for different situations, though there are certainly more.


IF THE SCION AND STOCK ARE THE SAME SIZE

Use either a whip and tongue (more advanced/challenging) or cleft graft. If the stock and scion are the same size, and the graft is clean, either of these configurations should get near full contact of the cambium layers of stock and scion all the way around the circumference of the cuts. With practice and a sharp knife, whip and tongue is very doable on small scions. Cleft grafts are easier though. Watch this video for how to make those grafts.


IF THE STOCK AND SCION ARE FAIRLY DIFFERENT

If the stock is larger, but not large enough to comfortably do a rind graft under the bark, I use either a cleft graft, a side whip and tongue, or lay the smaller scion along the larger one, something like a side lap or scarf joint in wood working.

If using a cleft graft, It is usually better to put in two scions, one on each side of the split, assuming you have enough scion wood, and enough room in the split. You can even put in a scion of something different on the other side, and plan to cut it off after a year or two. Using two scions is good insurance against failure for one thing, but it also usually heals the cleft and top of the stock cut much faster. I like to think of the cambium as the very thin layer between the bark and wood, so I will assess the thickness of the bark on the stock and scion. If the bark on the scion is much skinnier, I’ll scoot it slightly deeper into the cut to achieve better alignment.

If using a whip and tongue, you can make a small cut on the outside of the stock, removing just a small strip of bark and cutting barely into the wood. If the cut is too big/wide, the cambium of the scion will have to be shifted off to one side, so that the cambium layer of at least one side of the scion is aligned with the stocks’s cambium.

There is an easy way I’ve come up with to determine the depth of the stock cut in whip and tongue grafting when the stock and scion are different sizes.… Cut the scion’s slope cut first, and look at the cut. Make the stock cut so that the width of the wood showing on the stock and scion are the same. Ignore the bark and just go with the width of bare wood showing on both. If anything, the stock cut can show less wood, but I prefer to just shoot for the same wood width on both. It is okay if they don’t match perfectly all the way around, which they won’t. It’s also okay if 1/8 inch or so of the cut on the scion overhangs the end of the stock, but seal the cut surfaces up if you can.

An easy way to judge the cut width on a large stock for whip and tongue grafting is to make the width of cut wood showing on the stock and scion the same.  You might note that the cut on the scion will overhang the end of the stock a little when thi…

An easy way to judge the cut width on a large stock for whip and tongue grafting is to make the width of cut wood showing on the stock and scion the same. You might note that the cut on the scion will overhang the end of the stock a little when this graft is fitted. That is fine, just seal the overhanging cut.

A “side whip and tongue” graft, after one season’s healing and growth.  The scion is catching up in size with the stock and the end cut on the stock will be healed by the end of the next season.   I use this graft more and more on mismatched wood.

A “side whip and tongue” graft, after one season’s healing and growth. The scion is catching up in size with the stock and the end cut on the stock will be healed by the end of the next season. I use this graft more and more on mismatched wood.

A graft I’ve been using more and more is like a lap, or scarf joint. The small scion sits on the outside of the larger stock. If you want to keep it simple, you can just make a long strip cut on each of them and tie them together. A fancier version is shown in the photo, with angled cuts at the top and bottom of both stock and scion to lock the scion in place a little bit. Either way, the important part is good cambial contact, as with all grafts. If you can achieve that, it doesn’t matter too much what the graft looks like.

I’ve been using this lap, or scarf, joint graft a lot when the scion and stock are somewhat mismatched.  It is pretty easy to make, it can be made long for lots of cambial contact and a stable joint when wrapped, and it matches most of the way aroun…

I’ve been using this lap, or scarf, joint graft a lot when the scion and stock are somewhat mismatched. It is pretty easy to make, it can be made long for lots of cambial contact and a stable joint when wrapped, and it matches most of the way around. It’s a good clean graft. More advanced than a cleft graft, less advanced than a whip and tongue, but maybe better in some ways than an offset whip and tongue. I just used this graft, or variants of it, far more than any other to set out 90 new seedlings onto a single 8 foot tall dwarf foundation tree. Cut the scion first, making the top cut at an angle. Cut the stock off at a slight angle (not too much) and strip off enough bark to show the same amount of cut wood as shows on the scion. If you finish the lower angled cut on the stock by splitting it a couple of millimeters, the stock will sometimes slide in the split and lock in place.

It may look odd to have a very small scion sitting on the outside edge of a 3/8 inch stock, but this is a very good method. It makes a pretty clean graft and has plenty of potential for good cambial contact. I rarely do cleft grafts anymore, preferring to do this side whip and tongue when stock and scion are mismatched. Unless they are very mismatched, in which case…


IF THE STOCK AND SCION ARE VERY DIFFERENT SIZES

If the stock and scion are very different in size, use a rind graft, AKA bark graft. These are easy grafts and very reliable, as long as the bark is slipping enough. Watch this video, to learn how to make bark grafts.

If the stock is very large, put several scions around the edge. If it is more in the small range, I’ll almost always put in two scions if I can. Using more than one scion offers some insurance, and it heals the stock faster. Sometimes the stock will die down on one side if there is nothing growing there. So on something like a 2 inch stock, I’ll put in 2 or 3 scions spaced around the edge. When the cut face of the stock is mostly healed over, cut off the extra grafts, leaving the strongest. You may also severely prune back the growth of extra shoots during summer, winter or both to stunt them, and favor growth of the chosen one.

Two Cherub scions under 1/8 inch, grafted one on either side of an established root stock.  Multiple scions used in rind grafting offer insurance against failure, faster healing and reduced chances of stock die back on the un-grafted side.  Why didn…

Two Cherub scions under 1/8 inch, grafted one on either side of an established root stock. Multiple scions used in rind grafting offer insurance against failure, faster healing and reduced chances of stock die back on the un-grafted side. Why didn’t I coat these scions like I usually do to prevent drying? I have no idea, must have just spaced it out. I was probably thinking about girls, or apples, probably apples. I just checked them and at least a week after grafting, they still look plump and fine. When the weather is warm, the union may begin healing quickly and the scions can start receiving moisture from the stock. As long as moisture in balances moisture out, we’re all good.

Two small black Strawberry scions were grafted into this 1/2 inch stub.  After one year of growth, I cut off the extra one, which will heal over rapidly.  sometimes if you have a small scion on one side of a stub graft like this, the other side of t…

Two small black Strawberry scions were grafted into this 1/2 inch stub. After one year of growth, I cut off the extra one, which will heal over rapidly. sometimes if you have a small scion on one side of a stub graft like this, the other side of the stub may start to die back. The extra scion gives it a reason to stay alive and heals the cut over more quickly.

Bark graft of scions under 1/8 inch into a small stub.  These grafts can work great for small wood, and they are easy to make.

Bark graft of scions under 1/8 inch into a small stub. These grafts can work great for small wood, and they are easy to make.


SEALING

I generally seal the ends of all raw wood or cut bark that is left showing after any of these grafts are wrapped. My go to is Doc Farwell’s Grafting seal, the yellow stuff. But they seem to no longer sell it in quarts though, and a gallon is 75.00 or more. I am currently using Doc Farwell’s Heal and Seal, which seems to just be a blue/green version of the grafting seal. Aside from the color, I don’t see any functional difference, though I prefer the yellow, because it is easy to spot remnants of paint on the old graft unions years down the road.

PREVENTING DESICCATION

Assuming you’ve made decent cambial contact between the scion and stock, now it’s a waiting game. Will the graft heal before the scion dries out and dies? We want to keep that moisture in. First, lets look at the causes of desiccation…

Exposed cut wood or bark.

Heat

Wind

Sprouting buds or leaf surface

Low humidity

Shade will help with all of those problems. You want the graft to be warm enough to heal, but assuming it’s grafting season, you probably don’t need it taking sun baths. On a nursery bed, I’ll usually put in some 3 foot stakes, tack small finish nails into the stake tops and hang shade cloth over the whole bed, including draping down the South and West sides if the cloth is long enough. For single small, very short trees, I’ll take a small fir branch and stick the butt end in the ground on the south end, so that it leans toward the tree, and shades the scion like a fan for a few weeks. Some people use tinfoil wrapped loosely around the scion and graft, others use a paper bag

A well shaded nursery bed of new seedlings on bud 9.  Shade is for graft establishment.  Once growth is underway and grafts are healed, it is removed.  Note that some of these scions are over 2 feet long, but they still had a very high success rate.…

A well shaded nursery bed of new seedlings on bud 9. Shade is for graft establishment. Once growth is underway and grafts are healed, it is removed. Note that some of these scions are over 2 feet long, but they still had a very high success rate. No doubt the shade helped!

For insurance, it never seems to hurt to seal the entire scion. I use doc farwells grafting seal or heal and seal, to paint the whole scion surface and all cuts. Many people use parafilm, a very thin plastic film coated with wax, to wrap the entire scion, buds and all. I just got some to try this year. It is very popular and the common assertion is that buds usually break through it on their own, so it can be wrapped and left in place until it falls off.

A bud mummified in grafting paint.  it will bust right through there when it’s ready to grow.  In the meantime, though this coating is not 100% prevention from drying out, it does seem to help a lot.

A bud mummified in grafting paint. it will bust right through there when it’s ready to grow. In the meantime, though this coating is not 100% prevention from drying out, it does seem to help a lot.

Wind can dry scions out extra fast. If it is frequently windy, take extra precautions.

IF SCIONS ARE SPROUTING

In the unfortunate event that your scions have buds on them that are showing green and pushing out, you face the possibility that some leaf surface will be exposed before the graft is healed. Any leaf or shoot growth can dry the scions out quickly as the new leaves loose water. If this is the case, you can look the scion over carefully and remove most of the buds, leaving just the most dormant. Leave the scion long so it has more resources. Often the most dormant buds are the small ones near the base. Then employ all the other methods above as well until the graft seems healed. Usually when you see healthy, rapid, sustained growth on the scion, you’ve got a healed graft and the scion is getting what it needs. Dealing with sprouting scions is the subject of the next blog post, because like skinny scions, sprouting scions are just a reality you will eventually have to deal with.

This bud was pushing out and showing green already, which you can see through the paint.  Some buds on this scion were worse than this one.  If some buds are pushing on a scion, I will usually leave the most dormant two or three and remove the rest …

This bud was pushing out and showing green already, which you can see through the paint. Some buds on this scion were worse than this one. If some buds are pushing on a scion, I will usually leave the most dormant two or three and remove the rest before sealing the entire scion. I just checked, and 6 days after this was taken this shoot has sprouted through the coating and is showing leaf tips. It will most likely survive.

It is not always fun to work with skinny scions, but they often turn out just fine, and I have been told by some that they even prefer very small scions for rind grafts. Best of luck. Happy grafting!

Posted on March 31, 2021 .

What is This Apple Breeding Project Really About? & New Varieties Video

Black Strawberry, what it looks like in person on the tree is pretty much like this.  You can see why apples like this have names like Black Oxford.  Even the calyx is super dark.

Black Strawberry, what it looks like in person on the tree is pretty much like this. You can see why apples like this have names like Black Oxford. Even the calyx is super dark.

Here is a video I shot about the four apples that I’m sending out this year to be grafted by orchardists. With any luck, other’s will be equally impressed with them and they will be propagated and proliferate. The real measures of success are if they are found worthy of propagation and multiply and/or if they are used to breed other new interesting, improved varieties.

On the surface, this project to breed new apples might be viewed as simply just that, an effort to make some good new apple varieties. But it’s really about much more than that as I discuss in the first part of this rather long apple rant/nerd out session.

Posted on March 21, 2021 and filed under Apples, apple breeding, Fruit Review, Garden Stuff, grafting, orchard.

Apple Seedling Scions of New Varieties Available!, Details

A collection of seedling apples from 2019

A collection of seedling apples from 2019

This year I’m sending several apple varieties out into the world to be tested and grown by you all. Aside from my seedling bite me which has been available for a while, these are pretty much the first new seedlings I’m sending out. That is exciting! I have more promising and worthwhile apples than just these few, but nothing goes out until it has a name, and some apples I just want to grow, observe and eat more before I send them out or name them. This project has always had a larger group focus in mind, beyond my small efforts here. Therefore, unless I get lucky enough to grow something worth patenting, I would prefer to get new varieties out so that anyone can be part of testing and vetting them. That has always been the plan.

Some of these are probably most suited to further breeding, so those should get out to other breeders asap. One of them is going to be primarily suited to cider making. I’m not much of a cider maker, so the best way to test and vet cider apples, is to get them into the hands of cideristas, and I’m sure there are plenty who would like to trial them. Others I just find very promising, and I’m pretty sure I will want to grow them personally for home use, so out they go. It doesn’t make sense for me to sit on them trying to test them in my one climate. lets get them out and growing from Alaska to Florida, and eventually to other countries.

One ostensible and obvious reason for breeding apples is to create new apples. But that is just one facet. It is also largely about two other things, citizen involvement in breeding and selection, and fostering an altruistic, open source, paradigm that serves plants, people and the plant/people relationship. My observations lead me to think that there are two basic types of plant people. People who are generous and support diversity and community and people who primarily serve themselves to hoard and control; in a nutshell, “how can I help” v.s. “what can I get”. Clearly there is a large gray area in between, but I think the far greater majority of plant people tend in the former direction. I just want to encourage that tendency, by making scions, seeds and pollen available, including my new varieties and their pollen for breeding.

It was suggested by a patron that I consider auctioning off the scions of my new varieties. I think that is a great idea and we are going to give it a try this year. That way I don’t have to price them and it’s a good way for folks to support my work in plant breeding and other pursuits. These varieties are intentionally released in the public domain and once out there, anyone is free to share them, trade them, or even sell them. I encourage their broad dissemination, so please share and trade them out. I think in an ideal world, I would get some funds flowing back this way from propagation and scion sales, but that is another topic for another time. I hope to write up a proposal at some point for a digital community that interfaces small scale and amateur breeders with small scale and home growers, and all in between, while providing a user built data base on the varieties and their performance. Sounds cool right!?

For now, we’ll let demand play out naturally in a bidding format. Auctions will be on ebay this year, just because it is easy and most people already have an ebay account. Details and a list of all auctions and ending times at the end of this post.

Below are descriptions of the apples and what I know so far.


CHERUB (WICKSON X RUBAIYAT 13/2)

When it gets enough light to color up well, Cherub really stands out on the tree with it’s rich red skin, and red stem.

When it gets enough light to color up well, Cherub really stands out on the tree with it’s rich red skin, and red stem.

Cherub is a chubby, irregular, little pink fleshed sugar bomb of a crab apple. I say chubby because it’s appearance is squat and plump. That morphology was part of the inspiration for the name, chosen from several options by my patrons. Cherub’s deep red skin stands out on the tree when well ripened. It is not solid red, but the parts that receive light turn a rich red color. The season seems to be late fall, but it also appears to be an extended season, so I haven’t decided where the peak falls. The flesh varies from mottled pink to solid pink, developing as it ripens. The sugar level has measured as high as 24 percent, one of the sweeter apples in my trials so far.

It has some of it’s crab apple seed parent Wickson’s rich, malty and almost umame like flavor, as well as some of it’s red fleshed pollen parent Rubaiyat’s berry like red flavors. Neither is always in enormous abundance, but both contribute to the unique flavor profile. I would say the flavors are a little bit of an odd combination, but I think that is part of the intrigue. I remember thinking long ago before making any Wickson x Red flesh crosses, that Wickson mixed with red fleshed apples might make an odd flavor combo. I guess I was right, but the flavor is at least as intriguing as it is confusing.

I think if this apple has a fault in the eating department, it is over-politeness, quite possibly due to relatively low acidity. And they only become less sharp and more insanely sweet as the season progresses. Late in the season, the flavor deepens as the red flesh color really sets in. It also becomes deliciously aromatic. Anyone sniffing a good ripe specimen if this apple, would want to bite it. I’m really looking forward to having a lot of these to eat so I can get more familiar with them.

Cute, chubby Cherubs!

Cute, chubby Cherubs!

My notes say Cherub is not highly scab susceptible, I’ve not grown observed and taken notes enough to really say for sure though and it does get at least some scab. It had some black staining on the trunk, which could be fireblight, but the tree seems to have lived with it fine, or even outgrown it. The original tree appears lanky and spreading in a way that crabs sometimes are, though it’s parent Wickson is not. Until it is grown more and in different conditions, growth habit can’t be assessed with any real confidence. My guess though is that it is likely to be a smaller tree tending to spread and grow some downward branches with wide crotch angles. High productivity will keep it small and bend the limbs downward. The growth will probably support lots of spurs, with relatively low vigor. We will see.

It is worth noting that Cherub was the first apple seedling of it’s class year of 2013 to fruit at only 4 years from seed. It has set fruit the two following years as well. So another prediction is that it’s going to be precocious, producing early after grafting and somewhat reliably thereafter.

I’m continually trying to decide whether I’m too biased toward the quality of my apples, or too hard on them. One day I realized this was one of the best few crabs I’ve ever tasted, in the same general pool as wickson, chestnut and trailman. Um, like that’s a big deal mkay. I think there are better crabs to come and relatively soon, but I also think this is likely to find a welcome place in any apple or crab collection, or on any frankentree for the foreseeable future.

In terms of breeding, here we have a very interesting, very sweet apple, with one very red fleshed parent and one scab resistant parent with unique flavor traits. I’m already making crosses using this apple and I think it has high promise for generating some REALLY interesting offspring, especially if crossed with other wickson x red fleshed apple crosses! I just planted seeds pollinated this spring of, Black Strawberry x Cherub, Pink Parfait x Cherub and BITE ME! x Cherub. For crying out loud, something good has to come of those! :D

Video tasting here: https://youtu.be/0goZspLQa74

And here: https://youtu.be/f2q4VlYiJEo?t=750

Blog Post Introducing Cherub: http://skillcult.com/blog/2020/12/3/introducing-a-new-crab-apple-variety-cherub

Cherub in a collection of new seedling apples, showing flesh color, which varies from solid pink to mottled pink and white.  Flesh color is dependent on ripeness, genetics and weather, and can be quite variable.

Cherub in a collection of new seedling apples, showing flesh color, which varies from solid pink to mottled pink and white. Flesh color is dependent on ripeness, genetics and weather, and can be quite variable.


FLAXEN: Grenadine x Gold Rush

I love this name and its very fitting for an almost glowing yellow apple often with a tow colored beautiful splashy crown of russeting on it’s pretty head. And a flaxen beauty she is. This is a healthy, lass of an apple with demure flavor and character. In some ways it is fairly pedestrian, but it just works. The flavor is fairly rich, not complex or overly abundant, but without flaws of any kind. It tends toward the Golden Delicious flavor line, and bears some similarities to it’s pollen parent Gold Rush, but much less intense or complex. There is one special flavor component in Flaxen of citrus, more specifically lemon. It is quite noticeable at times and absent at others, but never very strong so far. I don’t think that the lemon flavor will every be consistent enough to be relied on, otherwise this would probably have a name involving lemon.

Flaxen produced some fine, comely apples in the worst apple year I can remember for both quantity and quality.

Flaxen produced some fine, comely apples in the worst apple year I can remember for both quantity and quality.

The flesh is very firm and crunchy, almost hard, though not woody or fibrous. There is a hint of pink flesh late in the season. It appears to get almost no scab here, which resistance it gets from it’s pollen parent Gold Rush. I have seen it sunburn, but we get that a lot here. It looks very much like the mild sunburn I see on Gold Rush. It didn’t take me long to decide that in it’s fall season, I want a branch of these enjoyable, scab free, and very probably reliable apples to munch on. I suspect it will make quite a good pie too, and be suitable for other processing.

The parent tree is in rough shape, so I don’t know much about the growth habits. I doubt it will prove to be a very good keeper, but I have not tried picking it early for storage. The season really isn’t right for that anyway. I did note that it produced a lot in it’s first year and produced again it’s second year. This past season it produced plump, beautiful apples in the worst apple year I’ve ever had for both quality and quantity.

I suspect that Flaxen will prove to be a steadfast and reliable friend, weathering the seasons to express it’s health and life giving vitality year in and year out. Lets find out!

Video tasting here: https://youtu.be/9EKc2azN1vY


SUGARWOOD

Red stem, peculiar pleated bottom, clean complexion, wood-like flesh and high sugar are some early hallmarks of the diminutive Sugarwood

Red stem, peculiar pleated bottom, clean complexion, wood-like flesh and high sugar are some early hallmarks of the diminutive Sugarwood

This is an odd little Grenadine x Wickson cross that won’t be useful for much other than juice/cider/processing or animal feed. That’s because the flesh is quite woody for lack of a better word. It has a texture that is both hard, but also seems to release it’s juice easily. Apples that turn to sauce when you crush them up for pressing are a real pain when it comes to extracting the juice with any kind of old school press. The pulp squishes out everywhere, clogs screens or sacking, takes a longer, gradual squeeze, and yields murky juice. I think it will be found that this apple, even when very ripe, will release it’s juice easily enough, and that it will run clear from the press. I can tell that just from eating it and squishing some juice out of it. At least I think I can! Time will tell.

Like I said, glossy, clean complexion.  Do you exfoliate bro?  Someday there may be hundreds of Sugarwood trees, with masses of these ping pong sized sugar factories, hanging steadfastly to the tree until dead ripe.   I’m predicting precocious, prod…

Like I said, glossy, clean complexion. Do you exfoliate bro? Someday there may be hundreds of Sugarwood trees, with masses of these ping pong sized sugar factories, hanging steadfastly to the tree until dead ripe. I’m predicting precocious, productive trees and juice that runs easily from the flesh with an uncommonly high clarity. Comparing to Wickson I think the following things are probable- more fruit flavor, probably as high or higher in sugar, higher tannin, better pressing, better hanging, less cracking, more durable in handling, better storing.

The flavor is fairly rich, though I don’t think I can describe it in any way other than just fruity. I can taste that it is a Wickson relative, but it doesn’t have a ton of Wickson flavor. It is definitely more fruity. It inhereted Wickson's high sugar gene, testing up to 28%. That might be the highest sugar apple I’ve tested here, or at least equivalent to anything else. I would not be surprised if it edges out Wickson in the sugar department, under the same conditions. I remember it having a decent bit of tannin and it is not un-acidic, but then my notes say it is neither, so it may just be a matter of year, season or ripeness. Either way, it is probably more of a blending apple than a single varietal cider apple. It seems a good apple for making juice for processing, as a source of sugar for instance, to make apple butter, apple syrup and cider jelly.

Another useful trait is that it seems to ripen over a long season and hangs pretty well. I’ve seen some fall off, but more than likely those were dislodged by birds, or maybe high winds. Only further growing experience will reveal how reliable and useful this trait is, but I suspect that it will hold well either on the tree, or off the tree while ripening for the press; and it won’t turn to mush in the mean time. That trait is going to prove valuable, whether hanging it in to december, or picking in late fall and ripening in a shed to convert all the sugars. In this. video, I’m tasting it in late Nov. and it’s still a bit starchy. https://youtu.be/BEXTqAhK2sg?t=177 My notes say it was still crisp and juicy out of refrigerated storage in the first week of february. I’m sending a scion to my friend Eliza Greenman, along with other good hanging apples, to try in her hog tree pigs-and-apples system. It hangs late until very ripe, and has a super high sugar content. Bring on the pigs!

The original trial row tree is upright and self supporting. My notes say the apples had some scab, but that it is resistant. I’ve seen it’s parent Wickson pretty much scab free here in a bad scab year, so that is not surprising. It’s too early to say for sure, but it is certainly not a scab magnet.

All things considered, it seems worth testing out further. Though it shows no red flesh, the leaves show a bright orange in the fall, and the stems are also red. So the red fleshed genes from Grenadine are lurking in there and given it’s other probable virtues, Sugarwood might make a good breeder to cross into other red fleshed lines, in pursuit of improved red fleshed cider apples.

Another video tasting: https://youtu.be/pbaklnXXcoA?t=308

Instagram post here: https://www.instagram.com/p/B5tZk0uHHGV/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link


BLACK STRAWBERRY Grenadine x King David

Black Strawberry.jpeg

This new apple is strikingly dark skinned, with white speckling. Between the appearance and the intensely fruity flavor smacking of strawberry, the name is very fitting. Black Strawberry is a gorgeous apple, which can have an amazing, complex flavor. But it also comes with some flaws a well, mostly from it’s seed parent Grenadine. I think that given the current condition of red fleshed apples, Black Strawberry will have a place in the orchard due to novelty and because the flavor is so compelling that it can over ride some of it’s faults for the time being. But it is really an evolutionary step in creating better red fleshed apples. My suspicion since I started breeding these red fleshed apples, is that the red flesh is most often going to come with other less desirable genetics that in most cases will probably require generations to breed out, while retaining what we want. This apple seems to have inherited some of Grenadines negative traits, namely scab susceptibility and poor flesh texture. We’ll have to see as it matures and produces over more years, but I think it will probably be an improvement on grenadine in some important ways, and probably not inferior in any.

Black+Strawberry+Freeze+frame+copy.jpg

So, it gets a name, and I hope it gets into the hands of amateur breeders out there to sow it’s genes. I also suspected from the beginning that if I ganged up a very dark red skinned apple with a red fleshed apple, there would be some synergy there. I think there is with this King David x Grenadine cross and that this kind of combination is worth pursuing. I have a second KD x red fleshed apple cross that is also very dark skinned and very red inside. Neither it, nor Black Strawberry had any significant red flesh this year, but it was super weird year and many red fleshed apples reddened up poorly or late due to weather conditions. So, your mileage may vary, but I’m sure the flavor of this apple will blow a few minds.

Bottom line is that this is not the superlative red fleshed dessert apple that we all want, but it’s a major step in the right direction and shows some of what is lurking in the flavorful genes of Grenadine, which does not taste like strawberries. And I’m quite sure I want to eat a lot more of them until something better comes along. It should be crossed with other, more refined red fleshed tending apples, like William’s pride, Pink Parfait, Pink Pearl, Rome Beauty and cherub. And also with anything that has berry flavors, especially strawberry, like Pink Parfait. Guess what cross I’m this year.

Blog post here: http://skillcult.com/blog/2019/12/6/introducing-black-strawberry-a-new-seedling-apple

Video tastings here: https://youtu.be/f2q4VlYiJEo?t=35

and here: https://youtu.be/pbaklnXXcoA?t=34


So those are the 4 apples I’m releasing officially this year. I have not been able to think of a good way to auction them off, so I’m going to do it this way. I will take pictures of each scion and list it separately in an ebay auction. These auctions will end 3 minutes apart, one after the other on a Sunday Afternoon/Evening. Is that a good way to do it? I don’t know, it’s going to be chaos lol, but it should be memorable :D The auctions will only be 3 days long, starting Thursday evening the 18th of Feb 2021 at 5:00pm Pacific Time (8:00 pm Eastern) They will all end Sunday the 21st at the same times.

Below are links to every auction with starting and ending times. All scions will start at 5.00, which is more than mine usually are, but a pretty average scion price elsewhere. My patrons will get a % discount on the closing price that is equal to their monthly pledge, starting at the 3.00 dollar level (3%) and up to 25.00 level (25%) But you have to let me know after the auction closes and request an invoice through ebay. I can’t keep track of all my patron names. I won’t send scions outside of the U.S.

I have these numbers of each:

Cherub 12

Flaxen 3

Sugarwood 10

Black Strawberry 18

Good luck and happy bidding.


BLACK STRAWBERRY AUCTIONS

#1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090753723 ends Sunday 5:00 pm PDT

#2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905361387 ends Sunday 5:02 pm PDT

#3 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905363502 ends Sunday 5:04 pm PDT

#4 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905364703 ends Sunday 5:06 pm PDT

#5 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905365487 ends Sunday 5:08 pm PDT

#6 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090765411 ends Sunday 5:10 pm PDT

#7 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905375919 ends Sunday 5:12 pm PDT

#8 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090772735 ends Sunday 5:14 pm PDT

#9 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090773462 ends Sunday 5:16 pm PDT

#10 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905378919 ends Sunday 5:18 pm PDT

#11https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090776838 ends Sunday 5:20pm PDT

#12 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090777634 ends Sunday 5:22 pm PDT

#13 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905381316 ends Sunday 5:24 pm PDT

#14 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090779552 ends Sunday 5:26 pm PDT

#15 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905383026 ends Sunday 5:28 pm PDT

#16 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090781611 ends Sunday 5:030 pm PDT

#17 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090782637 ends Sunday 5:32 pm PDT

#18 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090783763 ends Sunday 5:34 pm PDT


SUGARWOOD AUCTIONS

#1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905394125 ends Sunday 5:36 pm PDT

#2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090792425 ends Sunday 5:38 pm PDT

#3 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090793453 ends Sunday 5:40 pm PDT

#4 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090794211 ends Sunday 5:42 pm PDT

#5 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905400506 ends Sunday 5:44 pm PDT

#6 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090795189 ends Sunday 5:46 pm PDT

#7 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905401465 ends Sunday 5:48 pm PDT

#8 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905402100 ends Sunday 5:50 pm PDT

#9 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090796876 ends Sunday 5:52 pm PDT


FLAXEN AUCTIONS

#1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090804343 ends Sunday 5:54 pm PDT

#2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090805222 ends Sunday 5:56 pm PDT

#3 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090806883 ends Sunday 5:58 pm PDT58


CHERUB AUCTIONS

#1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905418020 ends Sunday 6:00 pm PDT

#2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905421326 ends Sunday 6:02 pm PDT

#3 there is no #3

#4 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090816729 ends Sunday 6:04 pm PDT

#5 there is no #5

#6 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905423055 ends Sunday 6:06 pm PDT

#7 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090818765 ends Sunday 6:08 pm PDT

#8 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905424034 ends Sunday 6:10 pm PDT

#9 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090820281 ends Sunday 6:12 pm PDT

#10 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905425597 ends Sunday 6:14 pm PDT

#11 https://www.ebay.com/itm/254905426450 ends Sunday 6:16 pm PDT

#12 https://www.ebay.com/itm/265090824244 ends Sunday 6:18 pm PDT

Posted on March 16, 2021 .

Free Willow Basketry and Cultivation Books Available

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I just made 5 old out of print books available in the FREE STUFF section of the site. A lot of you might not even know that page exists. I use it to house collections of out of copyright books that I’ve ferreted out over the years, while doing digital research on various topics that I dabble in. I hope to find some more basketry books in the future to add to that collection. In the mean time, I wanted to publish these, because for the second year now, I’m offering basket willow cuttings in the webstore and these publications have useful information on planting and cultivation.

Basket willow is very easy to start and to cultivate. The short story is that you find some damp ground, with year round moisture, poke holes with a rod, stick the cuttings in with a couple of inches exposed, and they grow. Once established, you cut all of the shoots off every year for weaving and they grow back the following season. But of course there is some nuance involved and the important question of how far/close to plant them. These old publications discuss that question and other subjects related to basket willow cultivation and harvest.

It is my opinion that most homesteads in good willow growing country ought to have at least a small patch of basket willow if good ground is available. They prefer to have damp feet and sunny leaves, and may do well on ground that is a little too low or flooded in the wet season for most other crops. The rods are not only useful for basketry, but also for use in the garden and just seem to come in handy here and there. They make great cat toys with a feather stuck on the end. I’ve used them a lot to hang apples or meat for drying and bacon for smoking. I’ve made bean trellises with them and used them as plant stakes and who knows what else.

Basket willow cultivars are selected for flexibility and toughness, color, lack of branches on first year’s growth, and maybe most importantly for a long even taper. In otherwords, the rod should not go from very fat at one end, and rapidly to very skinny at the other. Growing under crowded conditions helps insure long, branchless shoots with good taper.

Apples rings drying on basket willow shoots in the front of the car (the best food dehydrator you already have!).  I keep a bundle of these on hand all the time. If they get funky or dirty, I can just toss them in the woodstove and gram more.  Excel…

Apples rings drying on basket willow shoots in the front of the car (the best food dehydrator you already have!). I keep a bundle of these on hand all the time. If they get funky or dirty, I can just toss them in the woodstove and gram more. Excellent for skewering jerky to dry as well.

I have two types available, Green Dicks is an English variety with smaller than average rods. If planting a patch now, I would likely plant at least 2/3rds of that variety or a similar sized one, as I like the average shoot size, for average baskets. The larger variety I’ve lost the name of, but it is large, with bark that reddens in the sun, and it’s big enough for heavy duty baskets. If I were ever making a dog bed, a room screen, or some bushel baskets for agriculture this one produces those sized rods. Of course the larger butt ends of the rods can also be cut off and used at any diameter, so it is still all purpose in that sense. It should also be large enough to be used for making living fences and other living structures.

Weaving with medium sized rods.  This was in 2008 and aside from a handle replacement, 13 years on and his basket is still totally functional, having seen a lot of very hard use and no babying.  That is due to competent, not exemplary, weaving and h…

Weaving with medium sized rods. This was in 2008 and aside from a handle replacement, 13 years on and this basket is still totally functional, having seen a lot of very hard use and no babying. That durability is due to reasonably competent weaving and high quality basket willow from my friends willow farm in Oregon.

Willows multiply fast, and cuttings as small as 8 inch in length can be stuck directly in the gournd to propagate new plants. A small number of cuttings can be turned into a full patch in a few years time. All in all, basket willow is a pretty good deal, and aside from cutting every year consistently once established (though even that is not absolutely necessary) they generally require little to no care.

Check out the books here, fully downloadable.

All Willows are propagated from simple cuttings, which are extremely easy to root.  They are rooted in place where they are to grow, but sticking into a hole made with a metal rod.

All Willows are propagated from simple cuttings, which are extremely easy to root. They are rooted in place where they are to grow, but sticking into a hole made with a metal rod.

Posted on February 28, 2021 .

Scions and Seeds are Coming March 1st

Scions and seeds will be available March 1st in the webstore. I was planning on releasing them Feb 15th, but I’ve pushed the date back so I can get more product done before launch. If you need to do some planning, the scions listed in the webstore now from last year are mostly the same stuff I will have this year too. I will also have some scion wood of a few of my seedling apples available, but I have not figured out how to handle that yet. It will likely be auctioned off as there are limited quantities and a lot of interested parties. I just don’t know how or where yet, but will be figuring that out in the next week or so and let you all know. I will have at least Sugarwood, Cherub and Black Strawberry, but probably others as well.

I have some intentionally cross pollinated apple seed and some open pollinated. Unfortunately, most of a big batch of seed, including a lot of BITE ME! crosses that I made, were hauled off by mice one night while drying on the counter. It was also just a bad apple year, so I don’t have as many seeds as usual. I have a lot more basket willow cuttings this year than last year however.

I still have some vegetable seed too. I’m particularly interested in Zapotec tomato this coming season, as it seemed to display as much late blight resistance last season as the two resistant varieties I grew. i hope to plant several zapotec plants mixed with susceptible varieties to get better information on relative performance and resistance. I’m hoping it wasn’t just a fluke. If it continues to show resistance, I’ll be very happy. It’s hard to find resistant varieties, let alone one that I already love. Check Zapotec out here

I also hope to get a new batch of awls made by the first. I ran across some beautiful spalted maple for handles which I’ve started turning up on the lathe.

Spalted Big Leaf Maple destined for awl handles.  basically it’s attacked by fungus leaving various shades of discoloration and black lines.

Spalted Big Leaf Maple destined for awl handles. basically it’s attacked by fungus leaving various shades of discoloration and black lines.

As usual, patrons will get early access to the store for a day or two before sales open to the public. Watch for a notification from patreon on the 27th or 28th for a password link for access.

Posted on February 14, 2021 .

Introducing A New Crab Apple Variety, Cherub

When I say crab apple, a lot of people will think of something for cooking at most, or more likely for the birds to eat. Well, I’m sure the birds will love my new crab apple, but there is nothing crabby about it. In fact, Cherub is an exceedingly polite dessert apple. Lets dig in to the specifics.

Wickson is the seed parent and the red fleshed Rubaiyat is the pollen parent. Both parents were brought into the world by visionary plant breeder Albert Etter in the first half of the 20th century. The pollination was made in spring of 2013. The seeds were planted in the winter and grown out for the summer of 2014 into saplings. In spring 2015, they were grafted onto dwarfing rootstocks and planted out to await fruiting in the trial rows.

2015 seedlings grafted to dwarfing stocks and planted in the trial rows to await fruiting..

2015 seedlings grafted to dwarfing stocks and planted in the trial rows to await fruiting..

The first and only of those 2013 seedlings to produce fruit in 2018, was Cherub. So right off, it gets points for being precocious. In fact, Precocious was one of the 3 run off names that I had the good folks that support me on Patreon choose from. It is also worth noting that it has fruited the two years since as well, so it is very likely going to get points for regular bearing.

Cherub, small, chubby and irregular

Cherub, small, chubby and irregular

The apple is small, though not all that small for a crab. The skin, when it colors up in the sunlight is like it’s parents, striped with light to dark reds, layered over yellows. When it reddens up well, it is quite attractive hanging on the tree. The outline is lumpy and irregular, and the somewhat chubby appearance is one of the reasons that I hit on the name Cherub. The cherubs of the old classic paintings, and of modern folk art, are typically chubby and pink.

The flesh color varies from somewhat mottled pink and white, to dark pink all the way through. This flesh coloration will vary from season to season and fruit to fruit.

A cut Cherub in a collection of other seedlings from my breeding project.  The flesh color seems to vary a lot, but that is fairly typical of red fleshed apples.

A cut Cherub in a collection of other seedlings from my breeding project. The flesh color seems to vary a lot, but that is fairly typical of red fleshed apples.

Culturally, it appears to be a small tree. It is hard to tell for sure with only a single parent tree, but so far, it is rangy and small. The tree got what appeared to be fireblight on the trunk early in it’s life, with black running sap from sores in the bark. It has survived without intervention though, continuing to grow and fruit. I’m not sure it is fireblight, but I suspect it is. My notes seem to indicate that scab susceptibility is light to medium.

The season for this apple is probably long, with more flavor developing later on. I have picked it as early as mid October and as late as December. it’s too early yet to say when is best and that will vary from climate to climate anyway.

It has flavors from both of it’s parents, but not always in great abundance. It has some mixed fruit and berry flavors from Rubaiyat. It also has a small, but significant, measure of the rich, deep, malty goodness of Wickson. Wickson lends richness and depth and rubaiyat lends higher fruit notes. The two together make a slightly odd, but compelling and interesting palette of flavors.

Sugar is through the roof. It was the third highest reading of the year in 2019 at 24%. It is all the sweeter tasting because it is also low in acid. It can be sweet to the point of being cloying due to this combination of low acid and high sugar. It should be good for processing into cider jelly, cider syrup, juice, hard cider and apple butter, at least when paring is not required.

Out of the crab apples I’ve been able to grow and taste, this is probably the third best, with the other two being Wickson and Chestnut Crab. But it’s hard to really rank them, because they are all quite a bit different. The fourth would be Trailman. There are still a lot of crab apples I haven’t tasted, but I would guess that if one were to spend a few years ferreting out and growing the very best small apples with crab genes, I’d be surprised if it did not rank in the top dozen, and more likely the top half dozen. I think crab apples as good as cherub, and better, are coming in the near future, either from my orchards or other’s. For now, this apple can compete in the pool. It also shows what is possible by injecting new flavors into our crabs.

Cherub was an inspired cross of two parents with exceptional traits of one kind and another. As is often the case, it shows obvious traits of both parents, extreme sugar and malty richness from Wickson and red flesh, fruity/berry flavors and coloration from Rubaiyat. I have been somewhat lukewarm on this apple actually, because, with all it’s exceptionally good characteristics, I tend to feel that something is missing in the eating of it. It may very well be as simple as the low acid, which coupled with exceptional sweetness can make it seem a bit cloying at times. Or maybe it’s that one or other of the flavors is just not quite up front enough. Then one day I realized that I’ve been enthusiastically breeding with it already, crossing it onto various other apples, and that it competes with the best crabs I’ve eaten, those that inspired me to breed with crabs in the first place! This led to an epiphany that I am indeed a picky little bitch and totally spoiled! The apples I’m hoping to breed I can already taste in my mind, and they are lofty imaginings. Those may come to fruition in the future, but it is definitely time to name this little nugget of sweet goodness and send her off into the big world to multiply and perhaps produce some delicious and hopefully superior offspring in someones orchard.

So here it is, the aptly named Cherub; a fruit of ridiculous Sweetness, chubby, pink fleshed and deliciously different. If it turns out to be as good as I think it is, I think it’s worth pausing a second to consider the ramifications of producing such a promising crab apple in a small population of seedlings. What then is to come in the future? I will restrain myself from going off on a tangent about the potential there is in breeding with crabs, both for home growers and the public market. I’ve already gone there before and will at some point make the point even more emphatically.

Scions will be available this year, but in very limited quantities since I only have a few from the original tree. They will likely be sold in some kind of auction to raise money for my breeding and orchard projects.

Posted on January 21, 2021 .

Most Intense Flavor Yet, Taste Testing Seedling Apples Nov 2020

Here is a recent video where I’m going through the apple seedling trial rows taste testing fruits. It has been a very weak apple year. We paid for the epic crops last year with the trees taking a year off. It was also a bad drought year, which no one is talking about with all the other bad news. I’m hoping for a good rain this year, even if it means flooding. Too much water is better than not enough (he says from the mountain). If there is a fruit that can adapt to a changing climate, it’s probably apples due to the very high genetic variability and ability to grow and fruit from the tropics to siberia. Already, what you can grow often ends up being what will grow and fruit well in your climate, instead of which apples you actually decided you wanted to grow and eat. Another great argument for planting MORE APPLE SEEDS!

Aaaaanyways, this year saw the most intensely flavored apple out of the trial rows yet, Grenadine x Lady Williams 2011 #7 It is also at least equal quantitatively in flavor to any apple I’ve ever tasted. I think I’ve identified some of the flavors, but it is a mixed bag. One thing I love is when apples have these sort of artificial fruit candy flavors. I think this one has the relatively common watermelon candy flavor, but also with purple grape and probably more. Eating it tastes very familiar, as in childhood memories familiar. I think the reason I can’t exactly nail it is that it’s probably like taking several jolly rancher candies of different flavors and melting them together. But the feeling of familiarity is as strong and relevant as the actual flavor. It’s sort of like those smells that take you back to grandma’s houses or school and that may be more relevant than the actual smell. That happened to me the other day when I got an espresso maker at the thrift store and the smell of the plastic water reservoir took me back to camping in my grandparents travel trailer, drinking and eating from plastic bowls and cups and the smell of the water from the onboard plastic water tank. Well this flavor is like being back at the corner store as a kid spending a few cents on hard candies.

gren x lw with cider 58mm rokkor.jpg

Other than the remarkable and strong flavors, this apple is not much of an eater. It has a good measure of tannin, the texture is not particularly fun and the skin is thick. It is definitely more in the cider making class. The acidity seems adequate to make good tasting cider, although I’m not enough of a cider maker to know if it’s good enough to consistently produce smooth sailing results without blending or adjusting. Though it has a red fleshed parent, there is no hint of red flesh, and not likely to be any in the future. I’m starting to suspect though that the red fleshed grenadine, which is a flavor standout among blood apples, is hiding much more in it’s bag of flavor genes than just berries.

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But to have an apple taste good and have those flavors survive fermentation are two different things. Methodology can certainly make a difference, but some flavors are fleeting in cider production, and some are lasting. My prediction, if I will be so bold, is that these intense and delicious flavors will be able to survive fermentation and make some amazing tasting ciders. It may be quite some time until light is shed on the accuracy of that prediction. The tree has to be propagated more, and eventually come to bear enough to do a significant amount of experimentation. I’m not much of a cider maker, but I may go back to it and try doing some micro batches in mason jars just to start testing some of the accumulation of potential cider apples out of the row. But of all of them, this seems to be the most promising yet.

Speaking of accumulating potential cider apples, among the rest of a handful of possibilities, the aptly named Sugarwood, a Grenadine x Wickson cross fruited again this year. I’m still high on this as a potential cider apple and will likely be sending out scions this year. It’s virtues seem to be sugar, tannin, adequate acidity, clean woody flesh, a good measure of nice flavors and good hanging properties. I have a feeling it will also be a good producer.

The cute, diminutive and woody Sugarwood, coming eventually to a cider orchard near you!

The cute, diminutive and woody Sugarwood, coming eventually to a cider orchard near you!

I’m hoping for a much better apple year next year. I’m pretty sure that if the bloom season goes reasonably well, the trees will try to set a lot of fruit. I’d guess that 70+ seedlings will set fruit next year, most of them varieties that have already fruited, but a good measure of new ones too.

Posted on November 28, 2020 .

Stone Roof #1, The Art of Slating

I have a new video out on slate roofing. I started this roof/art project about 10 years ago and never finished the last side of the roof. The goal is to finish it up before the fall rains. It’s an interesting and rewarding process with lots of room for creativity. This first video covers how the slate roofing system works, cutting and punching slates, and patterns.

Slate roofs are durable, very repairable, fire resistant and beautiful. The slates are pretty easily cut, opening up a lot of possibility for creativity in design. different widths, lengths, thicknesses and colors can also be used to creative advantage. One could also stack or double slates up just for visual effect. Honestly, I’m surprised how little advantage is taken of the possibilities for making visually interesting roofs. I think that a person could make a career out of creating artistic slate roofs of unique designs. There are some pretty fancy old roofs, but they still tend to use standard geometric shapes, rather than more creative patterns, or graduating designs. Very few do large scale patterning over many slates or even the whole roof. Some of the more creative attempts that do exist end up looking rather clunky and pixelated.

lizard roof bokeh.jpg

The video explains the parameters that need to be observed in slating to prevent leakage, which is basically 3 inches of overlap sideways and 3 inches overlap from the top of the previous row of slates. Otherwise, aside from slate being too weak to support lots of long pointy shapes, there is a huge amount of leeway in design. Many traditional roofs are made of completely random pieces of all sizes from huge sheets to smaller pieces, as long as adequate overlaps are observed in laying them.

slater mock up still copy jpg.jpg

It is actually pretty easy to learn and do, though it is certainly some work hoofing slates up and down ladders, punching, cutting and messing about with whatever little obstacles come up. One downside to using a complex pattern is that it will take a lot longer, v.s. slapping up a bunch of standard sizes and shapes. It takes me probably close to a day to cut all the slates for one side of this roof, so that is 4 to 5 days of cutting right there. It will also take time to design. This one probably took me days to design, and I think the other roof took us a couple of days too, and it’s not even that fancy. But to me, sitting in front of that pile of slate and knowing the possibilities, is like sitting in front of a pile of great food ingredients and wanting to cook something good instead of throwing it all in a steamer, very tempting.

Slate is quarried and split on site. It has a strong grain to it and splits easily in one direction, so sheets as thin as about 1/8” can be made. Some are much thicker. The slate for this particular roof was acquired cheap as a lot from craigslist and varies from 3/16” to over 3/4” thick. It also varies a great deal in quality from very soft and probably not very long lasting, to very hard and likely very durable. Be careful buying any lots left over from roofing jobs. While it might be very cheap, and a great way to get affordable slate, it can also be full of rejects, so get it cheap and make sure there is a lot more than you need to account for a high number of culls. Variations in thickness, lumpiness, and invisible cracks can all be reasons for slates to go to the reject pile. When you pick up a slate to use it, it should be tapped on to assess it for soundness. A good hard slate should ring if it is not cracked. Sometimes just a small loose piece of slate hanging on will keep it from ringing, but slates that don’t sound right are generally put back in the pile.

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New slate is quite expensive, but probably a good deal if you are thinking far enough ahead. Many slate roofs are over 100 years old, even over 200. Given the durability, you can also salvage it from old buildings and re-use it. If there are slate roofs in your area, keep an eye out, or even contact roofers and ask them to call you if they have a replacement job and maybe they’ll let you remove the slate and save them some work. The slates may be perfectly good. Many people, including roofers don’t know how to repair them, so they just replace them instead. Tragic, but it could be good for you.

Cutting slates is essentially like cutting paper. It’s a shearing action. I use a slate cutter that is a lot like a paper cutter. Traditionally, a cleaver of sorts is used with a straight metal edge. Purpose dedicated slate hammers also have a shank that can cut slates. I watched a slate artist on youtube, James Parker, who uses a hammer face to shape slates. Any slate cutting by this type of shearing action leaves a beveled edge which is nearly always placed facing out on the roof as it is very attractive. Sawn slates are pretty boring looking and not commonly used.

cutting slate copy blog.jpg

Hole are usually punched instead of drilled. For most slates, one good smack from the pointy end of a slate hammer will knock a usable hole. Slate hammers and even some standard European framing hammers have a pointy end for punching slates. My slate cutter also has a punch on it that makes nice clean holes. You could also use a nail. Punching slates leaves a small divet in the face of the slate, which is necessary for countersinking the nail heads below the surface. It’s still good to have a drill and countersink handy for special situations, but generally punching is faster and easier.

The divot popped out on the face of a slate punched with the pointy end of a German carpentry hammer.  This depression provides a place for the nail head to nestle into at or below the surface of the slate so that it does not rub on the bottom of th…

The divot popped out on the face of a slate punched with the pointy end of a German carpentry hammer. This depression provides a place for the nail head to nestle into at or below the surface of the slate so that it does not rub on the bottom of the slate above it.

This was a more involved project than I had anticipated, but a very rewarding one. I would do it again if I could justify taking the time (making youtube videos is a good excuse ;), but I would take more time for design. Fortunately, it is easy to mock up designs with miniature slates cut to shape from scraps, of which there are always plenty. I’ll post follow up videos here in the blog as they come out.

Posted on October 31, 2020 .

My Spider Bite Story, Herbal Healing & Walking in The Dark

It’s story time! A video story on what I think was probably a spider bite that I got when I was 20. I think it went as well as it possibly could have, maybe due to the herbal remedies I employed. People suffer terribly and sometimes die from spider bites. Jeff Hanneman of Slayer died from a brown recluse bite, after a long hospital stay. I just hope I never get another one.

Posted on October 30, 2020 .

Apple Report: Grenadine X ? (Goldrush) 2011 #9 - Crunchy, Yellow, Scab Resistant Seedling

No time to type much. Gotta mail the old laptop off for a new keyboard this morning. But here’s a video report on a new seedling. In some ways it’s nothing super special. Just a competent, firm, crunchy, nice tasting, yellow apple in the Grime’s Golden/Golden Delicious complex. Good flavor, with a little spice and sometimes a fleeting lemon flavor. Though slightly pedestrian, it bore two years in a row and it’s almost scab free. It produced beautiful apples on a very sad looking sapling under tough conditions. It also expresses a very little bit of the red fleshed trait, which could be useful if used as a parent in further breeding of red fleshed apples. It might actually be useful for breeding for lemon flavored apples too, of which I have at least one other, actually named lemon. And of course scab resistance is also useful for breeding. This won’t be a long keeper like Gold Rush, but it does have the parentage, so it may express in offspring. all in all, a promising breeder carrying two important traits I want in apples, red flesh and scab resistance. It’s getting grafted out a few more places for further assessment and of course eating enjoyment :)

Posted on October 14, 2020 .

Commonly Axed Question: Charring Axe Handles, Why I Don't Do It

I’m asked a lot if I char the surface of my axe handles, have I tried it, do I recommend it, and so on. I’m going to tell you why I don’t, and am not likely to start. We’ll be looking at this problem largely through the lenses of primitive technology, bows and wood failure under tension, so there are some interesting general lessons to be dabbled in.

In spite of the very clickable, emphatic video thumbnail, even though I don’t practice it I don’t have a strong yay or nay opinion on whether anyone does or does not char their axe handles. People do it a lot and seem to get away with it, and it’s not my axe. I’m just sharing why I don’t do it. In searching for Youtube videos in preparation for this segment, I didn’t really see any dissent or contrary views, though I’m sure they must exist somewhere. It has become a popular and seemingly common practice lately.

I think of carbonized wood as compromised wood. Charring wood makes it harder up to a point, but also more brittle. I have done a lot of what is often called primitive technology, essentially stone age living skills. A very fundamental skill in primitive technology is heating and bending wood. Arrow and spear shafts, bows, hoops and other items sometimes need straightening, or curving. Many applications require the heating of dry wood, v.s. steaming the wood or heating green. If someone doesn’t teach you otherwise, you are likely to find out pretty fast, that if you scorch the wood of an arrow shaft, not even black, but just toasted brown, it becomes brittle and is much more likely to break when bent for straightening. It’s easy to do, I’ve done it many times, it’s a thing.

Let’s look at bows, because they are repeatedly put under a great deal of stress, and provide a perfect model of wood under extreme tension. Bows in fact often operate near the edge of failure.

A bow is made flexible enough to bend a lot. In order for the bow to do it’s work, and not break, the wood, and the design, have to be adequately RESILIENT to the stresses a bow comes under. Strength is a bit of a sloppy concept to use when looking at this problem. Strength is an important concept in resilience, but what kind of strength? resisting what forces? and in what context? Resilience is the total ability to withstand stress, though it is still dependent on what type of stress. I’ve discussed the importance of resilience in regard to axe handles in another post.

Some bows are curved back at the ends, which is called recurving. Usually heat is used to make the wood flexible. The heat can be either dry or wet, and often steaming is used. If you were to survey the literature, I’m pretty sure you’d find that if there is a standard recommendation, it is to avoid scorching bows when heating them to bend. Scorched wood is compromised, brittle wood. I think it’s very unlikely that you will find bowyers recommending that you scorch the surface of a bow at any time, and actually just the opposite.

Primitive technologist Jay Sliwa heating and bending a yew wood bow in my front yard. He probably spent over an hour bending both ends of this bow, because it takes time to get the temperature high enough, and also deep enough, without scorching the…

Primitive technologist Jay Sliwa heating and bending a yew wood bow in my front yard. He probably spent over an hour bending both ends of this bow, because it takes time to get the temperature high enough, and also deep enough, without scorching the wood. Hot wood, even dry, will bend more easily. If cooled in the new shape, it will usually stay more or less that way.

Scorching and burning IS actually used in primitive technology though, to shape and harden wood. The common uses are for burning the ends of sticks to a pointed shape when making spears and digging sticks. This practice changes the character of the wood, making it harder, in order to resist the stresses of things like digging in the dirt, and that is a form of resilience right? A fire hardened digging stick tip is resilient to the stress of hitting dirt and rocks. It is more likely to retain it’s shape and will not dent as easily or wear away as quickly. Resisting the stress of digging is not resilience to bending though, it’s a resilience to impact, to denting and encountering other hard objects like rocks, dirt and animal ribs. These are the stresses encountered by a spear or digging stick point.

This digging stick tip is shaped and hardened by fire.  Great for impact and abrasion resistance, not so much for flexibility.

This digging stick tip is shaped and hardened by fire. Great for impact and abrasion resistance, not so much for flexibility.

That begs the question, might charring harden the wood of an axe handle to resist impacts that damage the wood by crushing, such as contacting wood on wood when splitting and limbing? I’m much more inclined to think that charring will increase the likelihood of wood tension failures, than that it will have any significant effect on impact resistance. There is also another solution to that problem, which is wraps, braces and collars.

Lets go back to bows again. When the bow is pulled, the part of the bow facing the archer, the belly, is compressed. The belly fibers are smashed together and essentially made shorter if that is possible. The wood fibers on the back are stretched out and put under tension like pulling a thread tight.

I think in both axe handles and bows, breakage is much more likely than not, to initiate at a single point of weakness, in wood that is under tension. As the bow is pulled, tension stress builds and the further toward the outside back of the bow the fibers are, the more they are stretched. The fibers at the very back of the bow are not only stretched the most, but they have also been violated in most cases, by being cut through to shape the limbs. If there is a weak point on or near the surface, the wood will begin to split and separate apart, and that separation may travel causing a crack or a full break.

The inside of a bow is under high compression and the outside (back) is under extreme tension or stretch. If you studied it, I think it’s likely that you’d find failures initiating on the outside back of the bow and traveling inward from there in mo…

The inside of a bow is under high compression and the outside (back) is under extreme tension or stretch. If you studied it, I think it’s likely that you’d find failures initiating on the outside back of the bow and traveling inward from there in most, if not all, cases.

If you could study that break in slow motion, I think you would see that the wood doesn’t come apart all at once, but that the crack initiates on the outside of the bend, on the surface, and travels from there toward the inside of the bend. In either a bow or axe handle, that weak spot might be where the grain is violated and runs out more than other spots, or there is a nick, knot or worm hole, or a thick or thin area. A weak point might also be where poor design or execution in building stacks an especially high stress on the wood.

Dry bent, with no scorching. This yew wood is prone to exploding apart when it fails. It is easy to understand why bowyers avoid scorching the backs of bows, where the wood comes under very high tension. Understand that this bow is not strung with t…

Dry bent, with no scorching. This yew wood is prone to exploding apart when it fails. It is easy to understand why bowyers avoid scorching the backs of bows, where the wood comes under very high tension. Understand that this bow is not strung with this curve, but rather AGAINST this curve. It would be strung and pulled toward the ground in this picture.

Many Native bows in Western North America have sinew (animal tendon) glued onto the backs, similar to a layer of fiberglass. If there is one main reason to glue sinew or rawhide on the back of a bow, it is to keep the bow from breaking. Given the same exact bow, with and without sinew backing, the sinew backed bow is less likely to break. The reason this dried sheet of sinew prevents cracks is that it prevents them from initiating in the surface of the bow’s back in the first place. If the crack can’t initiate and travel because the fibers are held in place and reinforced, then the bow cannot easily fail in the way it is normally most likely to fail. Sinew backing is a very common way, to prevent the breakage of short bows that are under very high stress. In quite a few cases those bows use wood that is actually somewhat brittle and sometimes could not take the stress of being used to make a short powerful bow. The reason I point this effect out is to reinforce the idea that the initiation of cracks in the surface of wood is probably the initiating event in most wood that breaks under tension.

Sinew backed bow limb. Just like a collar or wrapping on an axe handle, sinew backing helps prevent failure, largely by preventing the initiation of cracks.

Sinew backed bow limb. Just like a collar or wrapping on an axe handle, sinew backing helps prevent failure, largely by preventing the initiation of cracks.

Axe handles are only somewhat analogous to bows, but they are under some of the same stresses and it is very likely that cracks typically initiate on the part of the wood that is under high tension in any given scenario. Like a bow, it is going to happen more where the wood is under greater stress and where the wood is weak at the surface in those high stress areas. This chink in the armor could be a small knot, a dent or nick in the wood or very likely where the wood grain is cut across at a strong angle. Another common place for cracks to initiate is where growth rings come together, because the wood between rings and between the fast spring growth and the slow summer growth are different, so they behave differently under stress.

So here are my working assumptions about axe handles and charring.

In most cases, failures will initiate at a point of weakness in wood under tension, on the outside surface of the wood, traveling from the point of initial failure.

Charring wood reduces the tensile strength of wood fibers, increasing brittleness under tension, therefore making that failure more likely to occur given the same tensile stress.

It’s important to note that theory v.s. real life is not always an easy pile of yarn to unravel. I may be missing something entirely that I haven’t thought of or have not been exposed to. Our decisions are informed by processing experience and information, and those are limited, as is our intellect. It may be that it is rarely, or even never, an actual problem to char the outside of an axe handle. Personally, knowing what I know and having charred and then broken arrow shafts, atlatl darts and other wood items, I cannot think of any good reason that I would burn the surface of a wooden handle that can come under a great deal of stress; on the contrary, it would seem I have good reason not to. Tests that might shed more light on the subject could be done pretty easily, as long as the sample sizes are large enough to account for wood variations and other unknown factors. But I’m not likely to spend my time at that, since I don’t really actually feel any need to treat handles that way.

The primary motivation for charring handles seems to be aesthetic, such as making the tool look more used or antiqued, or just good. And it is a very nice looking effect. I love charred wood and have practiced it a lot for decades, for reasons and effects I won’t go into here. I just built a whole wall of charred and burnished wood for my Indoor YouTube studio corner! But, you’re not likely to find me weakening the outside layer of an axe handle where failure is most likely to initiate, just for cosmetic purposes.

This video talks about how I do treat my axe handles after they are tuned up how I like them.

Charred and burnished pine used to good effect.  This wood is basically under no stress.

Charred and burnished pine used to good effect. This wood is basically under no stress.

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Another question I’ve been asked quite a bit is how to make axe handles look used. My sole recommendation for that is to use them. I get it, you don’t want to be the kid with glaring white new shoes. If I were to treat my axe handles to make them look used, I think I would feel like I was the tool. An axe handle patina earned with dirt, sweat, and sap, rubbed to a polish thousands of times with calloused skin is something of an accomplishment and a point of pride. If you want that, pick just one or two axes, and take the axe cordwood challenge.

So, there’s another in depth dive into more relevant, if obscure topics, brought to you by my patrons @ www.patreon.com/skillcult